John deere B [Archive] - Page 2 - MyTractorForum.com - The Friendliest Tractor Forum and Best Place for Tractor Information

: John deere B


Pages : 1 [2]

blake111
04-05-2011, 01:20 AM
I would take it to .045 over high compression M&W pistons. If you do everything right you won't ever be into it again in your lifetime.

sawyer04
04-05-2011, 08:19 AM
Be careful popping the compression on a double barrel. For reliability I would stay close to standard compression. I have even bored out and sleeved back to standard, put new wristpins on the pistons and put them back with a fresh set of rings.:rauch10:

blake111
04-05-2011, 04:40 PM
Be careful popping the compression on a double barrel. For reliability I would stay close to standard compression. I have even bored out and sleeved back to standard, put new wristpins on the pistons and put them back with a fresh set of rings.:rauch10:

The pistons I described won't raise the compression a whole lot. If you want more power you gotta have more compression. There are beefed up A's at plow days running 60Hp all day long and not hurtin a thing.

steves48B
04-05-2011, 04:49 PM
The pistons I described won't raise the compression a whole lot. If you want more power you gotta have more compression. There are beefed up A's at plow days running 60Hp all day long and not hurtin a thing.

Running that "A" all day more than a couple of times a year and you will "hurt" it.

Yellow is good
04-05-2011, 05:16 PM
So it sound like a overbore is not to horrible but, trying for more compression is not to wise. I am looking for usefull power gains, and nothing more. Want to listen to this tractor run for years to come!

I kept track of the shims, and got my manuals coming. So the pistons are usually reusable. I have found only a slight scuff on one of them. Now if I bore it out to 0.045 over I will obviously need new pistons.

This input is great folks thanks alot!!

sawyer04
04-05-2011, 07:54 PM
.010 is about normal. I wouldn't bother with a rebore either. Actually that old engine is sound. I had a B that had and inserted rod and a babbit bearing. Good machine, but thought that was weird. :rauch10:

blake111
04-05-2011, 08:05 PM
So it sound like a overbore is not to horrible but, trying for more compression is not to wise. I am looking for usefull power gains, and nothing more. Want to listen to this tractor run for years to come!

I kept track of the shims, and got my manuals coming. So the pistons are usually reusable. I have found only a slight scuff on one of them. Now if I bore it out to 0.045 over I will obviously need new pistons.

This input is great folks thanks alot!!

If your not going to raise the compression don't even bother. Boring it .045 with a stock style piston may make it make a 1/2-1 hp more.


You can safely beef a B up to 30-35HP and an A to 45-50Hp and work it all day long for years like they did back then and its not going to hurt it one bit, no to be rude but I don't care what anybody on here says, its not going to hurt that tractor.

Richland Industries made "power blocks" for these tractors(which is a alot bigger bore block) and M&W made high compression aluminum pistons for theses tractors. These tractors made alot more HP than stock. Never did hurt the trans, crankshaft or anything. All this happened in the 60's and 70's bc people wanted more power out of there old tractors. The people that didn't upgrade to a power block bored their original block and fitted oversized M&W high compression pistons.

Getting alot more HP out of these old John Deeres and still being reliable is not a problem nor is it something new, its been happening a long time.

sawyer04
04-05-2011, 08:18 PM
If your not going to raise the compression don't even bother. Boring it .045 with a stock style piston may make it make a 1/2-1 hp more.


You can safely beef a B up to 30-35HP and an A to 45-50Hp and work it all day long for years like they did back then and its not going to hurt it one bit, no to be rude but I don't care what anybody on here says, its not going to hurt that tractor.

Richland Industries made "power blocks" for these tractors(which is a alot bigger bore block) and M&W made high compression aluminum pistons for theses tractors. These tractors made alot more HP than stock. Never did hurt the trans, crankshaft or anything. All this happened in the 60's and 70's bc people wanted more power out of there old tractors. The people that didn't upgrade to a power block bored their original block and fitted oversized M&W high compression pistons.

Getting alot more HP out of these old John Deeres and still being reliable is not a problem nor is it something new, its been happening a long time.

I bought an old A that had a power block in it with aluminum pistons. Guess it was wore out when I got it. Pistons rattling around like a corn sheller and cracked head around the exhaust valve. That was in 65. The power block was installed in 61. Saw the repair bill. Maybe that was a freak incident.

blake111
04-05-2011, 08:59 PM
I've argued all I'm going to on the subject I feel I'm getting no where so I'll just let it be there is info to prove what I said is true. Duane Larson has a lot of power points and information put together from old magazines and brochures to back it up also. I'm sure JR Hobbs has collected plenty of info about the subject to. It is a shame that both of them have passed and gone now but all the John Deere brochures and field bulletins they collected will continue to help many people.

steves48B
04-06-2011, 08:53 AM
If your not going to raise the compression don't even bother. Boring it .045 with a stock style piston may make it make a 1/2-1 hp more.


You can safely beef a B up to 30-35HP and an A to 45-50Hp and work it all day long for years like they did back then and its not going to hurt it one bit, no to be rude but I don't care what anybody on here says, its not going to hurt that tractor.

Richland Industries made "power blocks" for these tractors(which is a alot bigger bore block) and M&W made high compression aluminum pistons for theses tractors. These tractors made alot more HP than stock. Never did hurt the trans, crankshaft or anything. All this happened in the 60's and 70's bc people wanted more power out of there old tractors. The people that didn't upgrade to a power block bored their original block and fitted oversized M&W high compression pistons.

Getting alot more HP out of these old John Deeres and still being reliable is not a problem nor is it something new, its been happening a long time.



You first said 60hp. Now your saying 45-50. Is it both? I agree that you can safley add 10 hp more.

Yellow is good
04-10-2011, 09:48 PM
I agree that you can safley add 10 hp more.

What are the common ways people build the B? Is there a site or link to read up on it.

steves48B
04-11-2011, 08:56 AM
When mine was rebuilt the bore was honed and new pistions were bought.

Yellow is good
04-11-2011, 11:43 AM
Did you hone it or have someone overbore it? Anyone local to vt that has a touch for engine work on these tractors. I was going to see what Vermont engine could do. They have done some work for me in the past.

blake111
04-11-2011, 11:04 PM
You first said 60hp. Now your saying 45-50. Is it both? I agree that you can safley add 10 hp more.

Yes I did at first say 60 b/c I have many friend's that have done it. I myself would keep a working A at 50 horse

Carl
04-16-2011, 10:26 PM
Dad used to have a 1951 B. It needed an overhaul and I remember that we put in a Power Block. I do not know the specs on it, but the tractor definitely had a couple more ponys. And that was the claim a couple more HP.

steves48B
05-13-2011, 09:08 PM
Have you got it back together yet?

Steve

Yellow is good
05-16-2011, 08:36 PM
No darn life got in the way. Think I am going to just bring the cylinders head and piston to a shop and have them mic them and just go from there. I have not even got in my manual to see what the factory bore spec was. I measured it though.

steves48B
05-17-2011, 07:34 PM
Here's a picture of my 60 that my wife and I painting. It's just a 50/50 paint job. I don't like "trailer queens" because then I'd be to scared to use it with all the time and money into it.

The only thing I a hate on this tractor is the **** rear exhaust!

steves48B
05-17-2011, 07:38 PM
Here's a picture of my 1948 model B.

sawyer04
05-17-2011, 07:46 PM
The only thing I a hate on this tractor is the **** rear exhaust![/QUOTE]


I like the clean lines the rear exhaust leaves on the hood. I have never seen an exhaust like that on a Deere. Is the manifold different also?
A sharp lookin 50, but sure am curious about that downdraft exhaust.

steves48B
05-17-2011, 10:17 PM
The only thing I a hate on this tractor is the **** rear exhaust!


I like the clean lines the rear exhaust leaves on the hood. I have never seen an exhaust like that on a Deere. Is the manifold different also?
A sharp lookin 50, but sure am curious about that downdraft exhaust.[/QUOTE]

The manifold isn't different. You could get a stock rear exhaust through mother Deere. BTW it's a 60.

Steve

sawyer04
05-17-2011, 11:53 PM
I like the clean lines the rear exhaust leaves on the hood. I have never seen an exhaust like that on a Deere. Is the manifold different also?
A sharp lookin 50, but sure am curious about that downdraft exhaust.

The manifold isn't different. You could get a stock rear exhaust through mother Deere. BTW it's a 60.

Steve[/QUOTE]

My mistake, you said 60. In my area it seems that we went from A's and B's to the 20 series two cylinders. The old double barrels are still working this farm and will after I'm gone. They have been here for three generations and are part of the land they work. I'm glad others choose to work them too.

TOPTRUK
09-14-2012, 01:19 PM
Any more progress on this B? I am restoring a 49, but the cylinders are very rusty. Good looking tractors btw....:trink39:

Yellow is good
09-15-2012, 10:22 AM
Any more progress on this B? I am restoring a 49, but the cylinders are very rusty. Good looking tractors btw....:trink39:

Why yes there is! Haven't bee so good about posting...

I have got the parts I need for the valve train, brakes so I can move the tractor safer (had non) and tore the tractor completely down and it is outside for presurewashing and priming.

The engine is all ready for reassembly the cylinders are bored 45 over the head's been leveled new pistons rings honed the crankshaft got all of the connecting rods matched ready to go. Just need to clean it prime it and start going together. Once together I will give it that pretty green color!

TOPTRUK
09-17-2012, 07:54 AM
Sounds great! What site/store did you find had the best selection and cost for parts? I imagine I am going to have to follow the same process you did with breaking the engine down and going through it all. Thanks, keep up the good work!

Yellow is good
09-17-2012, 09:23 AM
lots of parts from ebay for the ones the tractor was missing. The rest I bought new from ct farm, for I had a coupon with them to use up.

Machine work was done by my local engine shop who has done a fair amount of tractors to say the least.

The other bit of advise is to hang out at the local tractor pulls and talk to people. A lot of these tractors "experts" are not to computer friendly. I had to do some good old fashion research!