View Full Version : ingersollsnowthrower
junglejim
01-25-2006, 07:18 PM
question about a ingersoll snow thrower are they any good how do they work in wet snow do they plug up easy had a older johndeere one didnt take long to get rid of it
Argee
01-25-2006, 08:11 PM
The one thing about the old single stage blowers is that you need to keep them full of snow for optimum output.
Ingersoll444
01-26-2006, 05:45 AM
Welcome to MTF Junglejim!!!
I dont own a snowthrower, but I have heard a lot of people talk about them. If its not set up right, does not have the right belts, or if the clutch is out of adjustment, you will have probelms with the sloppy stuff. If the motor is running at the right RPM, the right belt, and the cluch working right, it works great.
junglejim
01-31-2006, 06:24 PM
thanks for the input
Joe C
01-31-2006, 07:04 PM
Jim I had a blower for my 446 case, pre Ingersoll. As long as you had a good pair
or tire chains and a counterweight on the back it was absolutely unstoppable.
Best blower I ever had. I do recall adjusting the clutch also because of the cold
temps. I don't know if an electric clutch might act different.
mla2ofus
02-01-2006, 07:17 PM
I agree with Argee in that the single needs to be stuffed full all the time with wet snow. I just read somewhere today that a single stage and sometimes a 2 stage needs to be regarded as a water pump. In order to work well, it needs to be kept full.
Mike
Keweenaw4310
02-01-2006, 07:26 PM
I agree with Argee in that the single needs to be stuffed full all the time with wet snow. I just read somewhere today that a single stage and sometimes a 2 stage needs to be regarded as a water pump. In order to work well, it needs to be kept full.
Mike
I'm thinking that would be a single stage comment. In a 2 stage, the impeller, or fan as some call it, is spinning fast. I'm sure the key is the water content & temperature of the snow. Wet heavy warmer snow will plug up chutes if stuffed and if there isn't enough to carry the weight up the chute, then it will just spudder and spin the snow around until there is enough.
With dryer, colder snow, it will clear itself of just a little more easily. Stuffed full it can get bogged down, slowing the engine and not throw very far. The ones I've used - walk behind and tractor mounted - seems to do fine with anywhere from a little to a moderate amount.
jackthebaptist
02-02-2006, 09:59 AM
I have a Case 220 with a snow caster and plow. The snow caster far outperforms the plow. You must run it at full RPM and control the forward motion with the transmission.
It is a single stage and runs quite fast. The tractor is only a 10 hp, but I have many attachments including a single plow which it pulls perfectly.
Ingersoll444
02-02-2006, 10:30 AM
Welcome to MTF!!!!!!!!
what other atachments you have?
jackthebaptist
02-21-2006, 08:48 AM
finally got around to answering the inquiry as to what other attachments:
I only have a mower deck for the 220. For my other Case, a 646 loader, I have a rototiller and plow for the 3 pt hitch. By the way, this loader with the 40 inch bucket is one of the best snow movers I've ever used!! I just cleared the "plow wake" from the end of my driveway,4 feet of packed snow/salt/gravel, with no problems. Highly recommended!! :fing20:
MacGruberizer
12-01-2008, 01:10 PM
I have a Case 446 with a new engine. The tractor was pretty hammered when I got it. I have worked hard to fix it up and even custom fit a snowblower to it. Got it for $10 off ebay. Work night and day, it helped have a machine shop to use. However, when I hooked it all up, I found out the auger turned backwards. Opppppps! or I mean Dooough! :homer:
So I tried twisting the belt into a figure 8, works for about an hour. Anyway, lots of heart ach, skinned knuckles, frozen fingers and lots of little chunks of smoking black stuff in the snow and that sweet smell of burned rubber later, I was finished.
Most of you would say, "Dud!, just buy a snowblower that was made for it."
Well, I could do that, and that would be,,,,,,,, smart. However at the time, $200-$300 bucks was not availible and I thought I could do it better. Plus, it just got personal. Then, it went on and on and
on,,,,,, like::beatdeadh
So, here is a link to the final results. It is a short video of starting this puppy up on a very cold Sunday morning. What you will see is the exposed transmission I made out of a block of aluminum, old bearings, and a set of worn Clausing Lathe change gears. I don't have time to give many more details right now. I have wanted to post on here for ages and start my own page.
Comments welcome, oh, BTW, I know most of my mistakes here but if you want to point them out, just don't be a pompus-know-it-all. I'm sure there are none on this site but you know the type. I love my work, I love to invent, drink beer and laugh with my friends.:trink21:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EbRjI6HMesg
Ingersoll444
12-01-2008, 01:23 PM
Cool setup!!!!!! Is the blower shaft drive???
MacGruberizer
12-01-2008, 02:07 PM
Yes. The blower drive goes from drivers right side to center, through an angle box then back. However, I took off a large v belt pully from the angle gear box. Then attached a love joy coupling.
My home made mount looks as if it came off the USS Wisconsin, I'm from there otherwise I would have said Missouri. But I also shread the coupling inserts. The speed is too high. My thought was, "a new 18 H.P. Onan should be able to pull anything. While this may be true, transmitting the power through the clutch is problematic. I was going to swap the gears. They are slightly different size. But really, I just bought the mule drive for a 222. Iam going to mount that and just run a belt. I think they are in the negborhood of 75" long. If I get the direction wrong, I just flip the belt. THEN I THOUGHT! This is a hydraulic tractor! Why not bolt on a hyraulic motor? Got any idea how fast a 444 or 446 hydraulic motor turns at full speed?
Hydraulic motors come in all different speeds so you just need to figure out what auger speed you want, the changes in pulley ratios between the auger and the hydraulic motor and then you can calculate the displacement of the motor you need.
MacGruberizer
12-02-2008, 12:08 PM
Hydraulic motors come in all different speeds so you just need to figure out what auger speed you want, the changes in pulley ratios between the auger and the hydraulic motor and then you can calculate the displacement of the motor you need.
Yes, now, this is a case where what you say is absolutely correct. However, I am looking for information that would allow me to utilize equipment that I already have. Since most people on this forum have Case tractors, they may have knowledge in this area. If I knew how fast the motor rotated I can then reverse engineer to the application.
I have heard that Case did a very good job of taking a standard transaxel and simply removed the pulley in-put mechanism and fit a hydraulic motor to the same housing. Maybe, I could ask if anyone has any knowledge of that vintage engines and sizes of pulleys. (make sense?)
I have never heard of a source of information for the 446 pump GPM. Any information could help me start fitting a motor.
Thanks for the in-put.
Lee
bhildret
12-02-2008, 08:13 PM
What's the PIN on your 446? The hydraulic output was originally 8.5 or 9.5 GPM, which can be determined by the PIN (assuming original pump).
The original Ingersoll snowcaster motors were sized for 11.25 GPM on the all hydraulic tractors' drive circuit. As such, an AH original motor size would not perform really well on your 446.
I believe the original sizing was .85 cubic inch on the AH tractors. I guess you would want about 85% of that, or around .72 cubic inch on a 9.5 GPM tractor.
Brian
Magnum RT
12-02-2008, 08:55 PM
The Case/Ingersoll motors are designed to run at wide open throttle at all times. That is 3600 RPM. The front PTO runs one on one or 3600 RPM, also. The Hydraulic pump out put is 8.5 gpm @ 3600 rpm. So to run a C/I snow caster with a hydraulic motor, you will need a motor that will run 3600 RPM with 8 GPM hydraulic output. Something in about a .6 CI.
Magnum RT
12-02-2008, 08:57 PM
Correction, The INPUT of the hydraulic motor would be 8 GPM.
MacGruberizer
12-03-2008, 09:10 AM
Now that is valuable information. I learned my hydraulics in the Navy. Now the CI rating. Is that converting the gallon to 231 ci x 8 gallons/min = 1848 ci/min divided by 3600 rev/min = 0.51 ci so, every rev displaces 0.51 ci of fluid. So the specification on the motor I want would be .5 to .6 ci? I think I am getting this right. However, does that not mean that the motor will rotate the same speed at the engine, 3600 rpm?
I guess the next question would be,,,, does anyone have any idea what rpm the single stage snow blower should run? I think I answered it myself. If the pulley sizes are the same, input to output, the implement is designed to run at full rpm, 3600. And the auger speed is set buy the internal gearing, in this case, chains and sprockets. does this make sense?
I shot some pictures this morning of the drive mechanism. I do wish I had a small universal to go in there instead.
Thanks in advance for your helpful comments. Teams always do better than individuals.
Here they are: I guess I have to upload to my page first. Be right back.
Lee
Caseguytoo
12-03-2008, 10:02 AM
question about a ingersoll snow thrower are they any good how do they work in wet snow do they plug up easy had a older johndeere one didnt take long to get rid of it
Ambient air temp has a lot to do with plugging up a snow blower or snow thrower. If it starts to get cold enough for slush to freeze on cold metal parts, then it doesn't matter who's machine you're operating. All things have their operating limits. It's up to YOU to understand what those limits are and then govern yourself accordingly.
As for the ability of a Case snocaster, perhaps this will help.
http://ca.youtube.com/watch?v=ec-yySjzT0s
Caseman2
12-03-2008, 01:19 PM
Ambient air temp has a lot to do with plugging up a snow blower or snow thrower. If it starts to get cold enough for slush to freeze on cold metal parts, then it doesn't matter who's machine you're operating. All things have their operating limits. It's up to YOU to understand what those limits are and then govern yourself accordingly.
As for the ability of a Case snocaster, perhaps this will help.
http://ca.youtube.com/watch?v=ec-yySjzT0s
That is so cool, I had to watch it twice as those lights gave the impression there was fire coming out of the chute.
Magnum RT
12-03-2008, 04:16 PM
Mac,
I think you have things pretty much correct. When you shop for a motor, just be sure you get one that will run at 3600 RPM on 8 GPM of hydraulic oil supply. This, of course for a C/I snowcaster.
As to weather or not the Case/Ingersoll blowers are any good, You will find very few faults listed on the Case GT Yahoo forum! I invite you to check it out, if you haven't been there. I blow snow over the roof of a one stall garage that I have to store my equipment in. Have had numerous 12 inch snow falls here in the Lake Michigan snow belt. Have never had a problem moving fresh fallen snow, nor drifts. I have a 4 WD Quad with a 60 inch blade that hasn't seen snow since I got my Ingersoll. Also an Ingersoll 7020 4 wd loader backhoe that has never moved a pile of snow.
Rol
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