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: Ford 3000 steering prob

08-11-2010, 12:58 AM
Hello all :)

Rebuilt my manual steering and feel pretty sure I have it timed right. I installed it back on the tractor and then replaced the front and rear tie rod ends on both sides. I measured the threads on each end carefully and they fell right in place back onto the steering housing. I feel several inches of "slack" in the steering wheel, left to right, back and forth. I didnt notice it nearly as bad before installing the steering links.

It also seems that the wheels turn more to the right than to the left. At least I can turn the steering though ! Before I couldnt even turn it.

Now I really was careful to try and get the steering shaft end play to a very small amount. But the sector shafts I'm a little confused about. If I turn the adjusting screws until there is no LATERAL end play, they jam up the steering. I wonder then, if I am misunderstanding what the manual means by sector shaft end play. And if I am adjusting them correctly.

Any comments or suggetionns are appreciated :

08-11-2010, 11:35 AM
IF and I do mean if the wheels are turning further to one side than the other then the timing is off. As for the jamming up when you try to adjust the slack that can also be caused by the gears being out of time. I know no matter how careful one is it is almost a fact of life that the thing is out of time the first time. BTDT got the shirt...

08-11-2010, 02:45 PM
I'd be interested to hear about the process to get the timing right.

I just purchased a 3000 that is hard to steer. The guy I bought it from says he tried to change out the front end with another 3000 that has power steering, but the parts wouldn't fit. British v. American mfg? Anyway, he put it back together and I'm guessing got something wrong. The linkage running to the front is adjusted very differently, left to right. My guess is that it should be close to the same, correct? The arms coming out of the steering box are at different angles when the tires are straight. Is that as it should be?

Bottom line is that I think I need to readjust everything but don't have the procedure. Can someone clue me in?



08-11-2010, 11:31 PM
Hey MoKen, I am in the same boat but with some good help I think I am on the right track. Lord only knows what the previous owner did to it. I'm not sure how acute the angle between the steering arms should be, but mine are not extremely drastic. I rebuilt mine and then followed the gear timing procedure in my cheap little manual. I also replaced the tie rod ends on my links measuring them carefully and then reinstalling them. But in all the activity I got my steering wheel out of it's center of travel so my wheels would turn more to the right than to the left. So this eve I took the steering arms off, centered the steering wheel in it's travel, eyeballed the tires for straight ahead and hooked the arms back to the shafts and I believe the thing turns the wheels as much as it ever did. One note is that the right link is shorter than the leaft one because the sector shafts aren't aligned in the housing right across from one another.

One thing you want to be sure of is that the box has 80-90W oil in it. As one of the members pointed out to me, the timing must be correct, and the sector shafts adjusted as needed to reduce "slack."

hope this helps !!!

08-12-2010, 11:22 AM
Actually most folks recommend using cornhead grease in the steering boxes anymore. Less likely to leak out as seals wear.

08-12-2010, 04:51 PM
What's cornhead grease?

Where did you get the manual that tells how to the time the gears? Are the instructions available online somewhere?

Thanks, Ken

08-12-2010, 05:14 PM
Most folks buy cornhead grease at their local John Deere dealer, I think jobbers call it 0 grease.

In the Manuals section there are two shop manuals for the 'N' series tractor, while not specific to your tractor the sector timing is very similar. Sorry I do not have anything specific to the 3000.

08-12-2010, 11:46 PM
I ordered my manual from Stevens Tractor in Coushatta, La. It was about $20 but it was a decade ago. I really used catalogs back then because all we could gethere was very slow dialup. The manual is labeled I&T Shop Service FORD SHOP MANUAL , FO-31.

Here's One on ebay:

There may be better ones, but it's got me through.

Good Luck!

08-13-2010, 05:48 AM
Corn Head grease is specified as '00' (as in 'double aught') grease; it has the consistency of chocolate pudding. It flows, but you time it with a calendar. It does not harden & form pockets around moving parts like more conventional greases. It's commonly found in JD crawler rollers & Snapper lawnmower gear-boxes. I believe the name stems from its being used in corn-picker heads. It works well in bush hogs & finish mowers with leakage issues as well, comes in tubes, & isn't the cheapest lubricant you'll buy. Works well in expensive (over $300 ten years ago) hidden headlight motors too.

08-13-2010, 11:39 AM
Thanks to all. I ordered the manual.

08-14-2010, 12:44 AM
If as suggested, and I use it in my manual steering housing, I guess I need to drain the oil and pump it in with a grease gun? Does it flow well enough to do that or do I need to hand pack it in to the housing?

08-14-2010, 08:07 PM
No it flows well,, that is why the switch. About 2 tubes and pump it in until it pushes out of the top bearing of the steering column. Then you know everything is fully lubed.

08-14-2010, 10:10 PM
I'll do it then :)