Murray WideBody LT, 14.5 B&S, spark but no fire [Archive] - MyTractorForum.com - The Friendliest Tractor Forum and Best Place for Tractor Information

: Murray WideBody LT, 14.5 B&S, spark but no fire


sprale
05-11-2010, 03:43 PM
I've had this mower for a few years, worked great most of the time. I just found the engine manuals on the B&S site, but are there any useful resources for Murray out there? The Murray site is about worthless unless you're wanting a new one.

I'm currently having trouble getting the engine to fire. Runs on starter fluid. Replaced fuel lines, maybe clogged jet(s)? Any good places to get B&S replacement parts online?

Here's the info from the mower:

Briggs and Stratton
14.5 OHV I/C Quiet
Model: 287707
Type: 1272-E1
Code: 990805ZE
Model/Type/Trim: 287707-1272-E1
http://www.briggsandstratton.com/maint_repair/manual_and_more/docsearch.aspx?enginelookfor=287707-1272-E1

Murray Select WideBody LT
Model: 42514XBA
Customer: 600-557 (SKU)
Mfg date: 99289
Serial: 7428428991PQ1049

BushBoneYard
05-11-2010, 04:44 PM
Can't help with the trouble shoot, but as far as a Murray spot for info, MTF is actually the best place. Murray is history, taken over by Briggs in 2005 after Murray went bankrupt.

We are a small but helpful group here in the Murray forum.

boneyard

johnboggs21
05-11-2010, 05:28 PM
carb probably needs a good cleaning.

hankll
05-11-2010, 07:23 PM
Yep, You need to take it all apart. I'd recomend a soak for 24 hr. in carb solution . You can buy gallon can of the soaking solution from most any big name auto parts stores for about $20. Has a lift pan inside to hold all the loose parts. Got a compressor? You 'll need compressor air to blow out the passageways, and I would also recommend the use of a soft wire, like what they use for bread wrappers minus the plastic strip on it. Use it to probe ALL passageways, then put it back together. When re-attaching the carb onto the intake manifold tube, use vasoline on the old gasket surface to make sure it is sealed good when you tighten the bolts. You'll need to use a pair of vise grips, unless you have the reverse Torx socket to remove / tighten those bolts.

mistavp05
05-12-2010, 03:15 AM
If after you clean the carb you still can't get it to fire, its your anti-afterfire solenoid (if you have one.) This is the little cylindrical "thingy" that screws into the bottom of rhe carb and has a wire that goes to the ignition. If that is bad, you won't be getting any fuel, as that is what controls fuel flow. Mine cost me around $40.00 direct from Briggs and Stratton's parts website.

lowendrider
05-12-2010, 11:07 AM
about the solenoid..you can also just nip the plunger off of it and put it back on. I won't be functioning but won't make any difference on how it runs...and it won't cost anything.

mistavp05
05-12-2010, 03:11 PM
about the solenoid..you can also just nip the plunger off of it and put it back on. I won't be functioning but won't make any difference on how it runs...and it won't cost anything.

But the engine will be more prone to backfiring, won't it?

arclight
05-12-2010, 05:59 PM
When you take the carb off, buy a rebuild kit. you will have to take the plastic parts off before you soak it. You may also be able to use a bread tie and a small paper clip to run through all of the passage ways in the carb, including the passages in the plastic parts. You can do all this and also try using spray type cleaner while doing the above.
Disabling the fuel selinoid gives it a greater chance of flooding instead of backfiring.:goodl: