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Keweenaw4310
11-01-2005, 03:35 PM
I've been looking for a 6' box blade for a while now. Found several sources for various brands. Shipping is usually the killer on them. I live so far out in the boonies that I can't just drive somewhere to pick one up.

A guy I work with has a King Kutter that he bought this summer. He's willing to part with it for $300.00 to help finance his Kubota snowblower that he just bought. He paid $500.00 for it a few months ago and it's still like new.

It weighs the same as the one from Deere/Frontier which was going to cost me around $600.00. It's 500 lbs.

It's a BB-72

http://www.kingkutter.com/WholeGood.asp?item=BoxBlades

rwairforce
11-01-2005, 05:35 PM
I have no experience with such a implement but looking at the picture I see no moving parts, the weight is the same as the others and it looks strong to me. For 300 bucks and no headache with shipping I think I would be the new owner if I were you. :congrats:

Carl
11-01-2005, 06:14 PM
The one you looking at like this? I bought this one this spring. Never having experience with any boxblade all I can say is that it works. It will shave, dig, level(if you know what you are doing, I struggle).

It is build solid. It will work my TC-24. The teeth are easy to ajust. I think it is worth the money. I paid between 350 and 400 for mine.

Wingnut
11-01-2005, 06:51 PM
King Kutter Box Blade is a good company and you can get teeth from any TSC for $300 you can't go wrong. I have a 5 foot Howes it was a part of a package deal with my tractor. I look at the King Kutter it was a good quality piece of equipment, I plan to buy a tiller from them next!

It will shave, dig, level(if you know what you are doing, I struggle). You not alone Carl practice practice practice I finally got the hang of it after 4 hours!

ducati996
11-01-2005, 08:22 PM
The only thing I have learned about box blades, is the side plates should be angled and not perfectly rectangle. They work better when there is a slope down in the side plates...

If its not clear I will have to draw a picture

Bruceman
11-01-2005, 11:26 PM
Ducati, do you mean they are tilted in, toward the middle of the box, at the bottom of the side plates? like this \____/ looking at the front of the blade.

sonny
11-02-2005, 01:10 AM
Wingnut, I have a King Kutter 72" tiller for my IH 404 and I really like it so far, does excel. job, lots faster than the good o'l troy-built!! sonny

Keweenaw4310
11-02-2005, 07:38 AM
The one you looking at like this? ....

It looks like that. It's a 6' model.

I brought my horse trailer with me to work today to pick it up. I have rubber mats so I have plywood in there to slide it in. The trailer's door is only 5'4". Too bad it wasn't a little wider or I could have had it dropped in there using the 3 point.

We'll most likely use his Kubota to lift it in there most of the way if not all of the way using the bucket.

sonny
11-02-2005, 09:46 AM
It's heavy, but with a little help from the kb. and plywood, you should be good to load. Watch your feet around tiller, as they are a little tippy when off the tractor!! sonny

Keweenaw4310
11-02-2005, 09:53 AM
This isn't a tiller, it's just a box scraper / blade. The guy says it can slide into the trailer on it's back if it has to.

horseman1
11-02-2005, 07:56 PM
Ditto on the box blade practice. I still gouge sometimes.

Keweenaw4310
11-03-2005, 08:51 AM
I picked it up and played around with it a little last night. I tried the shanks at 3 different positions to see how the dirt was torn up at various settings. Also adjusted the angle out and back in.

Pictures of it-----------> http://www.bootjackmi.com/tractor/boxblade/pictures.html

I was a little disappointed that the outer side 3 point connections were about 3/4 inch too wide for my John Deere IMatch system. I had to pull it off and connect up the regular 3 point way.

I see where a person would be moving the shanks based on the turf conditions and possibly want to just take them right out once in a while.

I was able to grab so much dirt that it would fill the area between the box and my back wheels. It would be nice to have ag tires for this, but the R4's will have to do. A little more slippage under heavy loads than I think would happen with ag tires. 4 wheel drive is a must with this thing.

Seems very rugged. Does a lot more "damage" than my back blade. Well it weighs about 2 1/2 times as much + the cutting edge is coming in at a steeper angle to the ground. Then there is a second cutting edge angled back which essentially back blades over what was just torn up or set down.

Argee
11-03-2005, 09:07 AM
Looks like it will do the job for you...What's the primary function for it??? Drive maintenance??

Keweenaw4310
11-03-2005, 09:38 AM
I'll use it a little on the driveways but mainly it's for the horse pasture expansion I'm working on.

Might be hard to see from these pictures, but I've cleared and leveled about 1.5 acres of land that was previously unuseable for anything. It was piles of debris that were bulldozed into a ridge 35 years ago. Out of the lumpy rotting stump riddled land were 35 year old trees - mostly poplar - which I've been pushing over stumps and all, then burning everything burnable and trying to smooth out the land into pasture.

So far so good. This box blade will make it even easier.

http://www.bootjackmi.com/images/hpexpand1.jpg
http://www.bootjackmi.com/images/hpexpand2.jpg
http://www.bootjackmi.com/tractor/treesdown.JPG