Anyway to stop cracking in AG type tires? [Archive] - - The Friendliest Tractor Forum and Best Place for Tractor Information

: Anyway to stop cracking in AG type tires?

04-26-2010, 05:22 PM
I know I've asked a lot of questions today and appreciate the responses! I'll ask one more for the evening. The used 1450 I just bought came with AG type rear tires. It is a fairly well used tractor and the tires have seen their share of work too. They are starting to crack in certain places. I'm wondering if there is anything that can be done/applied to slow this process down or stop it? I imagine that it is just a matter of time as nature does its thing - but I'd like to at least slow the process down as much as possible.



04-26-2010, 05:34 PM
I know if you park in a shed it will help reduce weather checking. The Sun can be pretty harsh on tires.

04-26-2010, 05:35 PM
spray it down with armor all/tire wet... or something similar real good and keep it up for a while.

04-26-2010, 05:36 PM
it's my understanding that rubber will crack like that as it decomposes. it's decomposition is accelerated by being in direct sun, and i assume humidity and heat play a role too. i have an old garden tractor that has been stored indoors for probably all of it's life, and the tires are in very good condition....


04-26-2010, 05:41 PM
The original F1s on our 38 Allis B looked good right up through the 1980s. Always kept in a shed.

04-26-2010, 05:43 PM
Sunlight will do it as said. Also Ozone from electric motors if you park next to one in a garage.

04-26-2010, 07:14 PM
ditto on the sun/UV thing. And, yup, strong electrical fields will also do harm - like transformer substations close by, etc.

04-26-2010, 07:31 PM
If they are cracking in the lug area it's over inflation.

04-26-2010, 08:47 PM
Sunlight will do it as said. Also Ozone from electric motors if you park next to one in a garage.

Yes, this has been my understanding also. :ditto:

It seems to be prevalent in certain tires more than others; so I would think the tire compound has a lot to do with it also.

04-26-2010, 09:12 PM
Yearly coatings with Black tire paint keep the tire "conditioned" . Also storage out of the Sun help. This "paint" is available on the East Coast from Meyers Tire Supply, and I think I saw it on Miller Tire website.

04-27-2010, 04:52 AM
As long as they hold air use them. When they start leaking if the tread is good put some tubes in them and run it. slkpk

04-27-2010, 08:13 AM
Shoe polish will hide the crack :) I learned that from watching the "The Fastest Indian"

04-27-2010, 11:04 AM
Aerospace 303 Protectant

04-28-2010, 12:13 AM
I had gotten a 1980 honda trail 110 from my grandfather that was always garaged in wi(cooler climate) I sold it cause it had just over 400 miles and was titled in 80 sa me as model year. there was NO cracking, not minor not teeny tiny NONE. this things was kept out of sunlight nad heat, the last license place was from 86 or so, never run since and carb was seized up as a result of old fuel. I very very doubt he put anything on those tires

04-28-2010, 12:32 AM
Aerospace 303 Protectant

Tire Tech Facts
The sidewalls of tires which are parked for extended periods, dry check and eventually crack and split. Annually, tire "dry-rot" is a multimillion dollar problem for RVers, trailer boaters and owners of classic cars. This engineering memorandum is a scientific examination of the whys of this process and explains in detail how 303 Aerospace Protectant is an answer to the tire dry-rot problem.

Tire manufacturers blend into the tire polymer certain chemical ingredients which inhibit damage from ozone and ultraviolet light, the main environmental degradants of tires and all other types of synthetic and natural rubbers. Ozone is an odorless gas, but is commonly thought of as the "electric train smell". Though more severe in cities and manufacturing centers, ozone is part of the air we breathe everywhere on earth. Hastened by the hazardous effects of UV light, ozone eventually causes rubber to dry and become brittle no matter the locale.

Ultraviolet Light
The need to protect rubber against UV damage is why tires are black. For this purpose, a common type of UV stabilizer called a "competitive absorber" is used. Competitive absorbers work by capturing and absorbing harmful UV light wave energy (instead of the adjacent molecule of tire polymer..that's why it's called "competitive"). Competitive absorbers have the added ability to convert harmful UV light wave energy into heat so it can dissipate harmlessly. All tire manufacturers use the same competitive absorber, carbon extremely inexpensive compound. All other UV stabilizers are prohibitively expensive. This is why tires are black and why tires are not available in designer colors. All UV stabilizers are sacrificial, meaning they are gradually "used up" to where they can no longer protect against UV damage. As carbon black loses the ability to do its job, it turns gray. This is why rubber grays as it ages.

Tire manufacturers use waxes to protect against ozone. When tires are in use (regularly running up and down the road for example) they flex. Flexing causes the protective waxes to migrate to the surface where they form a physical barrier between the air (ozone and oxygen) and the tire polymer. This process...the waxes migrating to the surface of the tire during called "blooming". When tires are not regularly used ( a parked RV, boat trailer, or classic car, etc), blooming does not occur. Ozone begins eating away the protective wax and before long reaches the tire polymer. Often by this time, the surface carbon black has lost its ability to protect against UV. With UV light and ozone working in concert, degradation starts. The tire dries, checks, and will eventually crack.

Other Degradants
Petrochemicals and silicone oils can remove the protective waxes and increase the rate of degradation. Common automotive "protectants" and "tire dressings" are typically devoid of UV stabilizers of any type and contain petrochemicals and/or silicone oils which dissolve away the protective waxes and can actually aggress the sidewall. In the event of warranty sidewall failure, one of the first things tire manufacturers look for is evidence of the use of these types of products. When found, this is often cause for not warranting the sidewall failure.

303 For Tires
303 Aerospace Protectant contains no petrochemicals or silicone oils and does not remove the protective waxes. 303 is actually absorbed into tires, delivering its unique set of powerful UV stabilizers into the tire polymer, supplementing and surpassing the UV protective action of the carbon black, and leaving a long-lasting flexible protective finish that is water repellent, detergent resistant, and will not attract dust. Ozone must eat through the 303 before it can get to the wax. 303 is an extremely effective anti-oxidant and anti-ozonant. 303 is the longest lasting, most powerful protective and beautifying treatment for tires and all other synthetic and natural rubber.

Tips For Tires
303 treated tires have the rich, waxy, almost vinyl-like, dark black look of new rubber. 303 tires look and feel like brand new, not greasy new. For Maximum Tire Beauty: Spray 303 Aerospace Protectant directly on a clean and dry tire until the sidewall is thoroughly wet with 303. Without touching the rubber, easily wipe any 303 overspray from the rim. Do each tire the same way. After 10-20 minutes, wipe around each tire once or twice with a dry rag to pick up unabsorbed 303. Your tires will have the look and feel of fresh new rubber.

First Time Use: On sidewalls that are excessively dried out, two treatments may be necessary the first time. To note: A) The regular use of 303 can entirely prevent the UV and ozone damage associated with parked tires. Reapply 303 every 20-30 days. B) 303 is 100% safe for all types of wheels, all alloys. Wheels regularly treated with 303 repel water, road grime and brake dust and clean up far easier than untreated wheels.

04-28-2010, 01:03 AM
does that 303 stuff work, anyone on here use it??? got lots o stuff with pricey tires around here that will age faster thanthe tread will wear out

04-28-2010, 06:47 AM
Ya, I wonder if that stuff does work? I have some old AG tires off of one of my Bready's that are in nice shape, but very hard, and starting to crack a little. I dont realy want to get new ones, becouse they are a old brand tire, in nice shape, and its only going to be used on a "buzz around the yard, and maybe tow a trailer" buggy.

04-28-2010, 07:18 AM
303 seems to work well if you keep using it.
I'd avoid Armourall though!
It is death to sidewalls.
my .02cents

04-28-2010, 07:27 AM
If they are cracking in the lug area it's over inflation.

I have also seen this before, cracking in the middle of the tread between the lugs.

04-28-2010, 08:25 AM
I'd avoid Armourall though!
It is death to sidewalls.
my .02cents

Can you elaborate on "avoid Armour all" please?

I'm not sure I understand "It is death to sidewalls." :thanku:

04-28-2010, 11:34 PM
Can you elaborate on "avoid Armour all" please?

I'm not sure I understand "It is death to sidewalls." :thanku:

I believe this dates back to before Armor All changed their formulation...The following is just one example of thread bashing that went on back in 2003...;)

04-29-2010, 07:54 AM
I have some of that 303. I haven't used it long enough to say anything bad about it. I've seen RV'ers cover there tire with white tire covers to cut down on the UV damage.

05-07-2010, 08:24 AM
Didn't this question. Yes I was not aware that ArmorAll had changed their formulation. My experiences where formed 25 years ago and I just stopped using the stuff. We also have a rule at my shop (auto repair) "no tire dressing" for the same reason.