Re: How to make your own wheel weights?
Another method I've use with disc rotors in similar fashion,is too use some angle iron "L" bracket peices ,about an inch wide,and 1/4" thick at least,bolted to those square holes on the rim with short carriage head bolts,and I welded on four 1/2" threaded rods to the angle iron,that'll bring the rods "in" more,and allow them to line them up with the existing lug stud holes in the drums to bolt them on...that way no drilling is needed..
(call me lazy!)..
To do the cement fill,I'd bolt on the threaded rods with the pipe spacers on the inside to the drum,then fill it with cement and let it dry a day or two..no need to weld the pipe spacers on the drums,which might prove difficult to do,since you'll be using lock nuts on the outside of the drum to hold them on,and they will "clamp" everything together to the rim and angle iron brackets anyway,and it's unlikely they would ever come loose..having nuts on the outside is much easier than trying to tighten or loosen them on the back side of the rim!..
it'll also be much easier to put nuts on from the outside after sliding the drum on the long threaded rod "studs" too..if your worried about the cement cracking,you could tack weld some wire mesh reinforcement stuff across the inside of the drum halfway in,,but I've not had any troubles with that happening..
You'll probably have to flip the rims around, so the valve stems will be on the inside,it'll make them a lot easier to get at when its time to add air!..that might widen the wheel track some too,or narrow it,depending on the offset of the rims..
I've made some wheel weights out of disc rotors stacked up and bolted together,one set I made with 3 one ton truck rotors bolted together was so heavy I could barely lift the darn thing and get it lined up onto the studs!..(80+lbs!)..made a huge difference in traction..