Looks nice.I would think that 4x4 1/4" wall would be way heavy and way overkill for a garden tractor though.
Try 2 x 4 x 1/8" tubing with 1/4" plate at the stress points and the mounting holes in the arm ends could be schedule 40 pipe welded into holes drilled through the tubing, rather than 1/4"plate extensions, to better support the loads.
Your cross member isn't large enough to deal with the wracking of the arms from asymetrical loads on the cutting edge. Try 4 x 4 x 1/8" tubing there, and watch your hood clearance.
The attachment of the posts to the subframe is a little worrisome, and a better look at the subframe and its attaching points would be helpful. Without a brace from the top of your posts to the front of the tractor, the torque load at the bottom of the posts will be enormous, about 6' times the load in the bucket, or 600 ft. lb. for every 100 lb payload.
The subframe is the foundation for the loader. If it won't handle all
the forces generated by the use of the loader, most light GTs will have a problem dealing with what's left over. I broke my MF12H in half 3 times before I figured that out. That was 30 years ago. I only had one similar problem on my MF1655 in 23 years and that was laziness on my part. I knew the problem was there and didn't address it.
There are many different forces acting in several different directions at the same time with a FEL. The lifting forces meet at the front axle pivot.
Your arms, as drawn out, will be good for about 1.5 tons in the bucket, if you have enough counterweight. The post mount, only about 200 lb............. maybe.
Good basic design. Just needs some tweaking.
Check this thread for more info.
JD425 FEL build - Input requested!
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Sometimes you get on a roll, sometimes the roll gets on you.
MF GC2310, Husqvarna YTH20B42T
Down for Repairs
MF1655 w/ FEL, MF1655, MF12H, MF8H, MF7H
Spending too much time on MTF to work on my toys.