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How do you keep the snow out of the shed?

4K views 35 replies 17 participants last post by  Tractor-Holic 
#1 ·
Maybe a better question is "what do you do about snow in the shed".

Until this year my tractors and attachments have lived in a temporary shed. Any snow that I missed when cleaning the blower blade would melt in the sun and eventually soak into the ground.

Now I have my beautiful shed with a treated plywood floor. No matter how fastidious I am about cleaning the blower after use, I'm notgoing to get all of the snow. This snow will then end up in the shed, and may melt onto the floor, then either pooling or freezing or both.

I can't be the only one with this problem. How do you handle melting snow in the shed?
 
#3 ·
When I had a similar problem in my heated garage, my 7 year old son gave me the answer.

Sawdust! :duh:

I have a radial arm saw that makes the stuff in quantity! Spread it on the water, wait an hour, sweep it up. All done! :fing32:

Optionally, leave it on the floor until the next time the tractor is out, then sweep it up for reuse when the tractor comes back in. The water evapourates a lot quicker from the sawdust than it will as a puddle.

Bonus: It soaks up any oil leaks, too.
 
#4 ·
I use a short 15' hose on a outdoor hot water faucet and do a quick rinse of the tractor and blower before it goes back into the heated garage. All the snow and sand stays outside. Works well for me.
Not sure how well it would work for you if your shed is not heated.
 
#6 ·
Not sure I'd douse anything with water, leave it in sub freezing weather, then expect it to work right away the next day.

I've never been a fan of leaving snowblower in heated garage either. I learned the hard way what happens when a 65 degree snowblower after about 10 minutes of usinf it in 10 degree weather in a foot of fresh powder. Big block of ice hanging in front of the tractor where my snowblower used to be.
 
#12 ·
I have 2 sheds I use to store the tractor and blower. Both unheated.
One has concrete floor, doors face West. One has plywood floor, doors face South.

I have had little problem with melted water in either one. Although I try to remember to put 1/2 inch blocks of wood under the blower in case some melts and pools. Don't want the blower to freeze to the floor. What pools will melt on warmer days and drain out between the joints in the flooring.
What ends up on the concrete floor usually melts and evaporates on the warmer days. I have had ice on the floor disappear in the winter with out melting also. Dry air sucks the moisture out.

I usually broom off as much snow as I can before putting my blowers away. Especially the auger end bearings and the gear box in front. Sometimes roll the compressor out and use that to blow off snow and ice.

If there is quite a bit of frozen snow left on the tractor. blower, and cab, I will go out on the warmer/sunny weekend days and open the doors on the shed. Hand push the tractor or walk behind out on to the wooden ramp, and let it sit for a couple hours in the sun to thaw out. (The black metal on the blower really warms up easy in the sun.) I usually have my walk behind in the shed with the plywood floor.

If it really gets snow and ice on it, maybe every 3 or 4th outing, or after a big blowing snow event, I will bring it in the heated garage for the night and let it thaw and dry out with a fan blowing on it. Only problem with that is I have to run out every half hour to an hour and mop up the water and wring the mop into a bucket. If it has not completely thawed before going to bed, I throw down sawdust or some old towels to soak up whats left.

And as others have said, if in a heated building, you need to park it 10 to 15 min. and let the metal cool off before digging into the snow.
 
#14 ·
If there is quite a bit of frozen snow left on the tractor. blower, and cab, I will go out on the warmer/sunny weekend days and open the doors on the shed. Hand push the tractor or walk behind out on to the wooden ramp, and let it sit for a couple hours in the sun to thaw out. (The black metal on the blower really warms up easy in the sun.) I usually have my walk behind in the shed with the plywood floor.
This was a thought I had. Park the Deere x748 with the blower hanging out of the garage door onto the ramp. Let the sun melt the snow. There will still be some tracked in by the HDAP tires but not nearly as much as the blower might have.
 
#13 ·
Years ago an old fart like me would take whatever he had laying around and make a big square with bricks, wood, or whatever on top of the concrete like a corral for mice. Then laid a big tarp over it and up the sides. He just drove the tractor up on the tarp, it was a big area. All the water and dirt would then be on the tarp. It barn was not heated. Then one day when it was sort of warm, he dragged it out the barn, cleaned it off and put it back in. It seemed to work, but I did not think tarps were that waterproof.
 
#16 ·
It seemed to work, but I did not think tarps were that waterproof.
if its a green truckers tarp ( canvas ) yes they are waterproof , we haul steel under them and have to keep it dry . also a old truckers trick was we used to pour used motor oil on the tarp in the summer and let it soak in over a weekend so it would help make them last and more waterproof .
 
#15 ·
Even at sub freezing temperatures, snow will sublimate directly to vapour, by-passing the liquid water state. Lots of ventilation (open the door), will speed the process considerably but it will still happen in a fully closed shed, depending on how much snow. You can always pull the tractor out the next day and shovel out the excess to help speed the process.

I parked my tractor under a 12x26' tarp sunshade for several years. No walls, gravel floor, and no snow under or around the tractor after a week or so. With a 7" tall opening all around, rest assured, the entire area under that roof was covered in snow several inches deep after a storm. The rear half of the shed had other equipment stored and it was snow free as well, so it wasn't just because I pulled the snow out with the back blade.

At -20°, snow doesn't melt, even in direct sunlight, but it will disappear over time anyway.
 
#17 ·
I have a shed that's a few years old. PT wood floor, I just brush as much as I can off of the blower, and sweep out what I can after parking the blower in there. I've never had a moisture problem in there.

Mike
 
#18 ·
The only thing that ever gets parked in my workshop is the walk behind snowblower in the winter. Wood floors and drywall and I don't want water soaking into the first foot of it again, all I do is clean every lick of snow out of it I can and since its a walk behind beat the blower housing off the ground a couple times to knock everything loose. Then in the building it goes, any snow it still drops I shovel out before I light the wood stove next time. We also use a heat gun sometimes to free it up or to melt the snow out, that way its controlled and you can mop up the water when you are done. On nice mornings we just ;eave it out and let the sun melt it all off, but how often is it that nice after a storm...
 
#19 ·
I've pointed my torpedo heater at the snowplow,or snowblower,before I park it in my garage,so I wont have to deal with melted snow making ice puddles on the cement floor--it takes about 10 minutes to melt it all off good..

My shed has a dirt floor with some old OSB board laid down over the dirt to keep dust down,no problem with snow in there,it never melts..most of the time my quonset garage stays colder than a meat locker and the snow stuck to my truck or tractors wont melt--unless we get a few sunny days above 40 degrees..then I have to deal with frozen slush clumps stuck to the floor or icy puddles you can slip on easily..
I have put kitty litter on the icy spots ,that prevents sliding on it,and will absorb the water if the ice thaws..

If you are really concerned about the plywood floor getting wet--maybe you can get a used truck bedliner or fiberglass bed cover to park the equipment on..I see many being given away on craigslist locally..
 
#20 ·
Interesting reading. It sounds like the snow doesn't melt as readily in an unheated shed as I thought. What I'm really trying to avoid is 1/4" of ice laid down after the first storm, the another 1/4" the second... third... you get the picture. I think I'm going to install a 5/4x6" composite deck board on the floor of the shed that the blower skid shoes and 54" blade can rest on. Much less chance of them freezing to the floor that way.
 
#21 ·
ggsteve, Build up in the unheated sheds has never really been a problem for me. Seems to evaporate enough it does not build up over the winter like you would think it would.
Yes some will melt and pool on the floor, but not enough to really worry about. Main thing is to keep the blade and skids from freezing down.
In the past when they have, a sharp rap with a 3 lb hammer usually pops them loose.

Tractor-Holic had a good idea with the torpedo heater. It got me thinking.
When it gets to be time to let the machine thaw in the garage, I could first make a light frame work and throw a tarp over it out on the grass.
With the torpedo heater running under it I could melt most of the snow off before I move it into the garage. Less clean up in the garage that way.
But more work to set things up and then have to put it all away again.
Another one of those six of one, half a dozen of the other situations.

CraftsmanModder: "Leave it out and let the sun melt it all off, but how often is it that nice after a storm..."
Roger that. Usually after a storm here the temp drops way down and the wind blows for 2 or 3 days. And I end up having to go out and run all the drifts that build up.
 
#22 ·
I learned the hard way not to back my plow truck into the quonset facing the overhead door,after I plowed--because usually the blade has a ton of snow & slush frozen to it,and if the sun comes out the next day and its about 30 degrees or higher,the steel arches will warm up the garage enough to melt the snow just enough to fall off the blade, onto the floor--ditto for the clumps of slush that hand behind each tire..then it'll freeze to the floor overnight...

Once when this happened,the plow actually froze to firmly to the slab,the plow wouldn't lift up,instead the truck's front end just dipped down!..and the half melted snow and ice froze the overhead door firmly shut too,so I had to fire up the torpedo heater and let things thaw a good half hour,before I was able to free the truck,using a sledge hammer on the plow to shock it free,and an ice scraper to chisel the door free from the cement.....not exactly a fun job at 6 am when it was around 20 degrees out,after the day before hitting 40 degrees..

A friend tells me he always coated his plows and snowblower auger housings and chutes with fiberglass resin,that will not let snow stick --I may try that,especially on my snowblowers..the plows I just scrape clean with a garden hoe before I park the truck or tractors in the garage..
 
#23 ·
I like the idea of lining the floor with tarps or a couple layers of heavy plastic sheeting like for painting. easy to drag outside, shake off, and put back in.
 
#24 · (Edited)
I picked up an old (I Mean real old) torpedo heater that runs on diesel fuel, heating oil, or kerosene from my FIL this summer.
I had the blower out yesterday testing after repairs. Temp was about freezing when I went to broom it off. Snow wanted to stick to the metal and slide rather than fall off.

Remembered this thread by ggsteve and brought out the torpedo heater and fired it up in front of the blower. Works well.
Auto part Wheel Vehicle Automotive wheel system Automotive exterior

Vehicle Snowmobile Snow Sled Winter sport

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Remembered I had a piece of heat duct laying next to the shed I had kept from my recent furnace replacement.
Brought that out to see if I could better aim the heat. Then the snow really melted off.
Vehicle Concrete mixer

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15 minutes from grabbing the heater, to putting it back.
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Keep in mind it was warmer out than it usually will be, but I think will still work well.

Put her back in her stable.
Wood Vehicle


I fired this heater up last Saturday in the shed and it warmed up quick. Will have to keep a window open though.
Even have a temp control cord for it.

Can see the value of it if it gets below zero again.

Checked Craig's list locally and found them for $35.00 to $75.00 depending on size and age.
They seem pretty simple mechanically and should be easy to maintain or repair.
 
#31 ·
I picked up an old (I Mean real old) torpedo heater that runs on diesel fuel, heating oil, or kerosene from my FIL this summer.
I had the blower out yesterday testing after repairs. Temp was about freezing when I went to broom it off. Snow wanted to stick to the metal and slide rather than fall off.

Remembered this thread by ggsteve and brought out the torpedo heater and fired it up in front of the blower. Works well.
View attachment 1879266
View attachment 1879274
View attachment 1879282

Remembered I had a piece of heat duct laying next to the shed I had kept from my recent furnace replacement.
Brought that out to see if I could better aim the heat. Then the snow really melted off.
View attachment 1879290
View attachment 1879298

15 minutes from grabbing the heater, to putting it back.
View attachment 1879306

Keep in mind it was warmer out than it usually will be, but I think will still work well.

Put her back in her stable.
View attachment 1879314

I fired this heater up last Saturday in the shed and it warmed up quick. Will have to keep a window open though.
Even have a temp control cord for it.

Can see the value of it if it gets below zero again.

Checked Craig's list locally and found them for $35.00 to $75.00 depending on size and age.
They seem pretty simple mechanically and should be easy to maintain or repair.
BOY... I have one of those heaters.. it now will get some good use.. first off I could use it to heat up Perky when I need him in the winter.. then after the works done use it to clean off what ever machine I use.. all my snow equipment is in my lil hay barn shed.. it also has electricity in it..

gonna see if I can mount sumthin like a 8 or 10 inch heat duct elbow to the front of the heater.. that way I can aim the heat to where I need it..
 
#25 ·
I park my Deere with blower on top of an old truck vinyl bed cover in the shed. It melts off quite a bit over the next few days and I just clean the balance of the blower off by hand and swoosh the mess out the door before it re-freezes.

As for my truck and plow, I try to wash them after every storm with the hot water hose then park them in the heated garage to dry.
 
#27 ·
Not sure how hot the blower gets, but that seems like a big heater for being that close. I would think doing this slow and farther away from blower would be better.
 
#28 ·
My dad was trying to thaw some water pipes in the ground by making a tent of metal siding. He put the heater in under the end of the tent and melted one of the plastic wheels off the heater. It also burnt the paint off about 10" of the front of the heater.
 
#29 ·
Salamander heaters as they are called, shoot out such hot air that they can easily start things on fire. Sparks occasionally shoot out the front too.

Take 2 min sometime and read the Owner's manual.
 
#30 ·
Owners manual? We don't need no stinking owners manual. (I loved that line in the movie) :tango_face_smile_bi
I think I figured out it was built back in the 70's. Lord only knows where the owners manual ended up.

As with any tool we have at our disposal, a bit of common sense goes a long way.

I agree the heat coming out of there is pretty intense the closer you get to the end.
With the duct work on the front I kept shifting the end over a few inches every 1/2 min or so. Moved the heater over and back a little. Used my hand to feel the heat. As long as I could hold my hand there with out pain, no problem. Just used common sense. Never let it get that warm in any one area.
Snow just plopped right off, and I 'd move it. I imagine if a person left it very long in one place it could do some damage. But again, a person has to use common sense. :tango_face_smile:

Kind of like using a cutting torch. Want to warm something up? Heat it to get it loose? Go ahead and heat it. But leave it there too long, and you blow a hole in it.:duh:

From the time I went and grabbed it, and when I was done with the whole job it was only 15 min. total. Including, getting the camera, finding an extension cord, setting it up, rolling it all back up and setting the heater back in it's storage place. So did not have the heater out there all that long. Maybe actually had it fired up 5 to 7 minutes to get the job done.
Seems to me to be a quick and easy way to get the last of the snow off the blower before putting it away, and not getting a pool of water below the blower. (I can remember some nights after blowing 2 or 3 hours, I would not have wanted to spend even that little time. Just broom it off as good as I could, put it away, and go inside.)

But for goodness sake, don't ever point one at the wheels, chains, and tires, or the gas tank to get the snow off.
No matter how far away it is. That would be a good example of not using common sense.
 
#32 ·
I am amazed one of you guys on this thread has not come up with something like this for the front of your tractor, come on guys, be the first. Have a great day and hope you smile at this.

Gary
 

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#33 ·
Now you're talking!

I could mount that heater to the front of the blower. Use the cable controls to aim it up and down, and turn it side to side. Mount a secondary fuel tank on top of the hood for more run time. And pull the generator behind in the trailer.
All just to do the sidewalks.:sidelaugh

I never liked those shrubs and bushes growing by the sidewalks anyway.
 
#36 ·
Its not reccomended to try using ductwork with a torpedo heater...says so right on the label on mine..

I'm not sure exactly why not,but I witnessed what happened when a co-worker tried putting a length of 8" stove pipe over the 110,000 BTU Reddy heater we had at the junkyard,in hopes of directing the hot air at the frozen ice that built up in the sliding door track on the quonset building,so we could get the door shut,close up for the day, and go home..

The heater ran as normal for about a minute,then it started throwing dense white smoke,and it re-ignited ,and shot a flame about 10 feet long out of the other end of the stove pipe...it did melt the ice fast,but it was scary !..more like a jet car throttling up at the dragstrip,or a flamethrower..:eek:..

It kept "flashing" between the white smoke and the ten foot flame,we decided it was best not to leave the stove pipe on it...we found out by leaving a 6" or so gap between the heater and the pipe,with the pipe propped up on cinder blocks, ,it wouldn't snuff out and flash back or throw flames,but we didn't trust it..the pipe became red hot too at the end near the heater,and that wasn't exactly "safe" either!..
 
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