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Alternative supplier for NLA Sears parts?

3K views 14 replies 7 participants last post by  Tinker000 
#1 ·
I've got a 1968 Sears Suburban 12 917.25350 with a stuck 633a29 transaxle. I split the case to find a muddy, rusty mess inside. While taking it apart to clean, I discovered the part causing all the trouble was the Reverse Idler Gear needle bearing. The bearing was frozen to the idler shaft and the gear. All of the rest of the bearings, seals and thrust washers need replacement too due to rust. The rest of the main moving parts just need a good cleaning. I'm having a problem locating the reverse idler bearing part number 7397H. My local bearing and seal stores seem unwilling to help because I only need one not 10 or 20. The other needle bearings are all currently available from Sears parts. The transmission is very stout and with care (after I get it fixed) will last for years more. (If I find that bearing). Number 78 in the drawing and circled in red in the rusty picture. I would like to restore the tractor as it has seen many years outside and uncovered.
 

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#2 ·
Is there any number on the bearing shell itself ?...or an interchange from the number Roper used, to a common brand like Bower-BCA ,etc ?..

Reason I ask is I have a drawer full of various needle bearings I got with a cabinet full of nuts & bolts and other assorted things,maybe one of them is the right size..

If they aren't what you need you can probably hunt just one bearing down..someplace will have one..or can get just one..maybe NAPA or W.W. Grainger...

I had the same trouble when I needed spark plugs for an old Honda C110 I had--parts stores would only order a box of ten (and I worked in one!)--unless I wanted to pay 6 bucks for an NGK plug at a Honda dealer 15 miles away,I had no choice but to buy a box of 10 for 30 bucks..I think I used 3 of those 10 before the engine would no longer run,the flywheel came loose,and ruined the crankshaft..
 
#3 ·
How much would 10 be at your local bearing shop? Might be worth the cost just to be able to get one if all other avenues fail.
 
#4 ·
I originally pressed the bearing out to see if there were any #'s on it, the gear came off leaving the bearing stuck to the shaft. While the case seemed OK there were no identifying marks. I then pressed the shaft out and found the rollers inside were all flattened. I sanded the shaft and rollers and was able to get the idler to spin just to verify there were no more problems. I'll reopen the case this morning and get some better measurements of the failed part. I've read in this forum somewhere that some of these transmissions may have had bronze bushings inside, maybe if I can't find a roller then maybe make a bronze one?

The dealer didn't even seem to want to help, kept saying something about selling to business accounts. I just learned of another local place I'm going to try, Applied Industrial Technologies in Lanham, MD. If I do end up having to fulfill a larger order I'll just post here and on GT Talk to anyone else who may need one. I am concerned about cost though, just something as simple as loading up the sears shopping cart with the rest of the bearings and seals needed was almost $250. I've seen transmissions on ebay whose sellers say are working (even if they are pushing 40+ years old) for less than 200 with shipping.
 
#5 ·
Heck,I bought two "parts tractors" without engines for less than 100 bucks a few years ago,when my '67 Suburban 12 I got had a problem with the gears shifting--it would somehow shift into first gear by itself and the shifter lever just flopped around..

You could take out the shifter and re-align the shift forks and get all the gears to work again,but it kept doing that--other members here said it was likely the shifter detent springs or forks that were to blame..I'm not too keen on trying to fix transmissions,I would rather just bolt in another good used one..despite the gamble I took buying a tractor for the transaxle I could not "test out",it did end up being a good one...

There are a few of these 6 speed hi-lo transmissions on Craigslist here every so often for 50-100 bucks..shipping costs as much as the part does ,its not that there aren't any for sale,its the cost to GET them to you that sours an otherwise good deal..

I haven't opened one of these transaxles up before,but I have read here and on other forums some did have bronze bushings instead of bearings,and there is some question whether using gear oil instead of the non-detergent 30W oil specified in the manual will "eat" the bronze bushings or not..

I have at least two Suburban tractors that have had gear oil in the transaxle (at least some,if not full of it) and haven't had any ill effects show up..(yet!)...I doubt I ever will..
I feel gear oil protects better being an "EP" (extreme pressure" lube,though for straight cut gears I'm told its not really needed,its spiral cut ring & pinions that need EP more..

Though it might be a long shot,you may come across an NOS "new" transaxle--be aware some used in the later model years of Suburbans had a narrower case --I think a member here made a thread on how he installed one in an older tractor,it requred some custom brackets if I remember right,and mods to the brake mechanism..

If you do find a part number for the bearing,post it here and I'll see if any I have are a match...
 
#7 ·
If you Google-
AYP 7397H bearing
you can find where it's NLA.

Maybe with enough searching, you can find the dimensions????

BTW- You'd probably have better luck if this was posted in the Craftsman forum instead of "hidden" here.
Maybe you could have a moderator move it?
 
#8 ·
find the Inside diameter ( bearing faces or measure shaft diameter ) width of bearing , and outside diameter and I might be able to cross over a proper bearing unit , or use them dimensions and go to motion industries online and you should be able to find it . also you can check to see what type of needle bearing it is .
 
#9 ·
I get bearings by mail from a couple of different UK suppliers, and my local bearing shop will order any number [including 1] that they don't stock. Also seals, O-rings, circlips, grease fittings, and so on.
I think you just need a good bearing/seal supplier.
These parts are inexpensive and I'm sure there are various US suppliers who will post them to you for cheap.

Just go to any bearing manufacturer's website [like skf.com] and open their catalogue. Find your bearing numbers from their size charts, then put that number straight into Google and most likely you'll find a mail order supplier within a few pages.

Many parts are hard to get, but bearings [usually] are not.
 
#10 ·
Thanks Mark for the ideas, are you anywhere near Ribamondego I've got family there. I disassembled the transaxle this afternoon and paid better attention to the bearings after cleaning them. The reverse idler bearing is a Bremen BR-101312, I located one from Simply Bearings Ltd ~ Oil Seals SKF *** TIMKEN KOYO NTN NKE TRULOC Needle Rollers Taper Rollers Rod Ends Oil Filled Bushes Loose Balls O Rings Grease Plain Thrust it ended up being this --> BA1012ZOH Imperial Needle Roller Bearing 5/8x13/16x3/4 inch. I also found a suitable replacement for part #4894H (item #65 in the first picture) Major Branded B1210 Imperial Drawn Cup Open End Type Full Complement Needle Roller Bearing 3/4x1x5/8 inch. Simply Bearings allowed me to only purchase one of each and with shipping even from the UK it's cheaper than I found here in the US. I'll keep this post updated with other Numbers as I get them in. (maybe even attach a spreadsheet with them all so anyone rebuilding the transaxle can use them). Thanks again.
 

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#13 ·
Alternative supplier for NLA Sears parts Found!

Please see the picture key for this post.
To anyone who may want to replace all of the 633A29 6-speed transaxle needle bearings here are the part numbers. Referencing the attached picture with Item #, Sears #, Quantity and replacement numbers:
#23 - 6268H - 2 - Koyo B-1612
#38 - 8118M -1 - Koyo M-12101
#45 - 8119M - 1- Koyo B-1210
#58 - 4895H - 4 - Koyo M-1081
#65 - 4894H - 1 - Koyo B-108
#75 - 7398H - 1 - Koyo M-14121
#76 - 8117M - 2 - Koyo M-16121

All the original bearings in my transaxle are Torrington bearings. The numbers all crossed over to Koyo.
Hope this info helps someone as some of the Sears numbers are NLA with no substitution info.
I think the 633A38 and most of the others are the same. This transaxle was in a 1968 Suburban 12 and I guess it could be the "skinny one" (I remember reading somewhere here there was a thicker housing one).
 

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#14 ·
Thanks for the updates and the final outcome along with all of the part numbers. I'm sure this will be useful to someone down the line. I'm going to move this over to the Craftsman forum, mainly cause someone in need will probably be searching there.
MikeC
 
#15 ·
Found, Alternative supplier for NLA Sears parts

I worked on my transaxle today. I found someone on eBay who was selling all the gears and shafts out of a GT18 for a decent price (no axles or differential). What I found was the all of the bearing sizes are the same. However, the gear set #55 above and gear #42 are different from my 68 Sub 12. The teeth are larger and there are fewer than the originals. I am assuming the #27 Bull gear teeth on the differential are also larger on the higher HP tractor, I wouldn't know because I don't have the part assembly. I was able to press the #42 gear off my old rusty shaft and install it on the new/used shiny shaft, along with my original #55. The reverse idler gear is different on the GT18 as well, the teeth count and diameter is the same but there is no needle bearing in the center.The gear just appears to ride on the shaft.
#45 and #78 cross to Full Complement (45) and Caged (78) Bearings but the same bearing can be used for both.
 

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