Hello everyone! Well I just brought home my grandfather's 2404. He has owned it since the early 70's. He bought it from the construction crew that actually built the High School in Hempstead, TX in 1972. It's the high school that I graduated from in 1992. He purchased it to be used on his property in Franklin, TX. Where it served a hard well used life. It hasn't been used in about the last 8 or 9 years though, since he bought another tractor.
Now I'm the proud owner for a price tag of $600. I would like to find a good service/parts manual and restore it to a good working state.
I&T shop manuals are always what i have used they give good info on how to fix and overhaul basically everything on the tractor and they don't cost a arm and a leg to buy ether hear is the one you are looking for http://www.clymer.com/Book.aspx?bid=...+Manual+IH-201
you can never have too many antiques but finding the time and money to restore them that is a problem
OK I have removed fuel tank and cleaned it out, removed and cleaned fuel separator, changed plugs and wires, replaced battery cables and bought new battery. I also filled loader reservoir, and transmission with hydraulic fluid. I got it to crank and I have problem with the number one cylinder on the exhaust valve. When i have plug installed and plug on it is trying to fire back through the carburetor, with plug wire disconnected it still pops back. So just for test purposes i removed plug and fired it up. Motor is running smoother even though only on three cylinders. The front PTO pump is leaking, and the rear axle seal is leaking on the left side. When trying to move tractor it barely wants to move and the power steering and three point hook up doesn't want to work.
So it seems I may have a longer uphill battle than I had planned on with this project.
After removing the valve cover I realized that it's a miracle this thing even cranks. Also I thought it was running on three cylinders, when actually it is only running on one. The #2 cylinder was the only one that the pushrods were still in place. Also the amount of rust I found has me wondering if my oil pump is still functioning.
I'm gonna vacuum the rust out and clean the rocker assembly, straighten push rods and reset them. Then see if how it runs. I'm thinking if I remove oil filter and crank for just a few seconds to see if oil pump is working, before removing oil pan for further inspection.
Does anyone know the actual oil path for these engines?
I'm assuming that after oil pump picks up oil it goes through filter, crank, then cam and lifters, then up to valvetrain, then gravity feed back to oil pan.
Not sure about the oil path but WOW, that thing actually ran?! If I were you after I removed the rocker shaft assembly I would drain the oil and then fill the crankcase with diesel and let it sit for a few days. also, I would put the rocker shaft assembly and push-rods in a pan and soak them in diesel as well. Te oil pumps on those old IH's almost never fail, but it almost looks like that thing was underwater at one point.
Well after further clean up what I thought was rust, I believe was or is paraffin from probably running the cheapest oil or whatever was available. After several days of soaking the valve train and lightly tapping on springs and lifters, and straightening push rods, I have this thing running on all 4 cylinders believe it or not.
Still having a problem with the shuttle shift switching from forward to reverse. Also having problem with main hydraulics not working.
Be careful with all the crud on the top end. The shop vac would be a better tool than a blow gun. After you clean the top, depending on what the crud is, you may want to drop the oil pan and flush out any crud that lodged on the crank, etc.