Thanks for the positive feedback! I know a few folks will get some use out of it.
Next up: Valve guide RnR.
Onan valve guides hold up really well but at some point they will need to be replaced. If your valves have a normal wear pattern on the faces, not offset or oblong and you don't get any smoke on start ups or when shutting down then they are probably OK. Tired stem seals will cause smoking too.
For those of you that are going to replace them here are the part numbers, specs and how to remove and replace.
B series: B43E, B43G, B43M, B48G, B48M etc.
Intake guide: Part # 110-3161. Takes intake seal 110-3604
Exhaust guide: Part # 110-1935 This # supersedes 110-1807
P series: P216G, P218G & P220G.
Intake guide: Part # 110-3526. Takes intake seal 509-0289
Exhaust guide: Part # 110-3527
B & P series Intake valve clearance (stem to guide) 0.0010-0.0025
B series exhaust valve clearance (stem to guide) 0.0025-0.0040
P series exhaust clearance (stem to guide) 0.0020-0.0035
First part is removing the old guides.
Tools required: Hammer and a stepped punch that will fit down the guide bore.
No stepped punch in the toolbox? No problem. Use a long bolt with a nut threaded at least an inch up with a small washer as a shoulder and drive the guides into the valve box. Lifters need to be removed before attempting this!
You should be able to see the guide around your punch/homemade driver. You don't want to scar up the guide bore here!
Put a small rag in the valve box to catch the guide and prevent damage to the lifter bore. A couple of good whacks to get the guide moving and then easy tap tap tap until it falls into the valve box.
Intake guides have the raised shoulder for the stem seal and the intake valve/guide is always at the rear end of the block. Exhaust valve/guide always at the flywheel end of block. Intakes valves are larger than the exhaust.
First pic is of my home made copy of the factory stepped seat guide tool with some 1/4" all thread and washers. Use a lock nut at one end with correct size washers built up for intake or exhaust seat for the do it yourself super cheap tool. Don't go oversize because you want the washer to rest on the seat shoulder not the block. Seats and guides are at an angle compared to the head gasket surface and you want the guide to be pulled in nice and straight.
Small washer with oversize nut and regular nut for the guide or valve box end. Second pic is of the all washer cheap tool. Washers work fine if you pay attention to the next part.
When you are turning the locknut/all thread go easy and keep it centered so you don't mess up the inside of the new guide with the all thread. You may or may not have to put a wrench on the nut inside the valve box.
Third pic ready to start pulling the guide in.