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post #1 of 1 Old 12-04-2011, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Oglesby, Texas
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Arrow Small Engine Remote Control Panel

I was toying around with the thought of building a 10-kw generator project, and built this control panel which ended up helping run engines on the bench with minimal effort to set up.

10 kw Generator project

This control panel is set up for the single wire alternator, but can be modified easily for dual wire.

The first thing I needed was a housing to fit everything in. What I ended up using was a muffler heat shield, and an aluminum blank.

Next was to draw up a diagram and mark the heat shield for the cut-out work.

On the front side of the panel, I installed the switches, lamp, solenoid, ammeter and throttle cable.

On the back plate I installed the solenoid, bridge rectifier, and some insulated bolts to attach wires from the outside of the unit.

Here is a wiring diagram for the whole assembly:

The back connectors:
  1. Battery Positive (+)
  2. Battery Negative (-)
  3. Alternator
  4. Kill wire

I used a 28 VAC transformer and a small, sealed 12v battery to test the unit before actually trying it on an engine. I did not want to fry an alternator or coil.

Last was to bolt the front and back together, dress up the wires, and try it out.

Remote in use:

I modeled this on the dash on the Hulk II:

The connections are:
  1. Battery Negative to Control Panel, and Engine (6 gauge wire)
  2. Battery Positive to Control Panel (6 gauge wire)

Control panel connections:
  1. Throttle Cable
  2. Choke Cable (added later)
  3. Red = Starter cable (6 gauge)
  4. Yellow = Single wire alternator.
  5. Black = Coil "Kill" connector
  6. PTO Connector

The control panel to engine wiring harness:

This set up beats having to install the engine on the tractor to see if it will run after rebuilding, and allows for easier tuning, valve adjusting, and checking for leaks prior to installation.

OK, now for a step-by-step.

The connectors used were from my collection (we all should have one).

The Engine used is a B/S 18hp Twin Opposed.

Step 1: Securely fasten the engine to the bench, and remove the Air Filter assembly.

Step 2: Connect the Throttle cable.

Step 3: (Optional) Connect Choke cable. (Choke can be operated manually).

Step 4: Connect "Kill Wire." On this model engine, the coil “kill wire” comes from the coil under the shroud and is connected to this insulated terminal just under the intake manifold.

Step 5: Connect the Alternator wire (on this model it is a single wire.)

Step 6: (Optional) Connect the PTO. (I happened to have a spare connector for this, so I added the function.)

Step 7: Connect the starter wire.

Step 8: Connect Battery Positive to Control Panel. (one wire)

Step 9: Connect Ground Wires: Engine Ground, Control Panel Ground, and optional PTO Ground. All connect to Battery Negative.

Lastly, connect fuel line to fuel tank. The fuel tank should be securely fastened down and positioned slightly higher than the engine carburetor. (I recommend a fuel cut-off be placed mid way between Tank and Engine.)

Don't forget the safety equipment in case all does not go well.


1990 18.5 Craftsman (RED)
1988 18.HP 44 Craftsmans II (HULK II)
1983 Ford LGT 145 (Blue Money Pit) SOLD 6/27/2014
1978 Roper 20T (Old Girl)
198? JD 165 Hydro (Little John)


Last edited by DJ in WV; 12-06-2011 at 09:38 PM.
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