If adjustment doesn't work, will I have to replace the pressure plate too or just the clutch disc?
It's weird because my transmission works great and my clutch engages pretty normal, doesn't engage high on the pedal travel, nor does it slip under heavy load. I'm crossing my fingers it's just mal-adjusted or a worn linkage or something. So I want to adjust so my pedal is at the highest point?--or how do I make sure I adjust it properly?
Need more info on what setup your tractor has. If your engine clutch works fine, and you can shift gears with no bad clash when the clutch pedal is in - it sounds like you've got a dual-clutch tractor with live PTO and a stuck PTO clutch disk.
That is a fairly common problem with dual clutch setups. Engine clutch works OK but PTO clutch is stuck in "engaged" position. Sometimes it's just and adjustment, but often it's just plain stuck.
Like I said, if your wheel-drive works well and you can shift fine when the clutch is down - that same clutch cannot be your PTO problem. So, it sounds like you've got two clutches.
Now if you had a wheel-drive PTO, it is supposed to clash IF you try to shift while the tractor is rollling. But, I'm not even sure it was available on your tractor. It's a common feature on many other British tractors though, as well on many USA Deere and Henry (AKA Harry) Ferguson tractors.
Is your tractor a hi-low range trans model?
By the way, I find non-live PTOs to be near useless in Ford tractors. They often come with the four-speed trans setup which is also useless for certain tasks. Way too fast in 1st and reverse. Four speed was dropped mid-70s, and a 3 speed with a hi-low range took its place. Similar to what the Ferguson TO-35s had.
2000s and 3000s before July of 1968 came with four speeds or eight speeds.
2000s and 3000s mid 1968 up to 1975 came with four, six, and eight speeds along with 10 speed hydraulic-clutch transmissions.
After 1975, I'm not sure.
My 1964 4000 Ford does have a wheel-drive PTO. Ford called it a "ground speed" PTO.