John Deere Models: 1025R TLB,X748,GX335,140H3,112,Sabre 1542,TX Gator
Cub Cadet Models:0riginal,70,106,2206 & Experimental Non Production Rear engine rider
Simplicity Models:Wonder Boy
White Model: GT2055
"The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Edmund Burke
Your video is a good start. There are a few more things I do.
1. The stud usually had some wear/flat spots on it. It needs be replaced or if you have access to a lathe it can be turned to remove the flat spots.
2. You need to check the package seal/retainer to make sure they are ok. I have had several seals that were torn or missing and the retainer in not very good shape. Grease and dirt can get between the lever and bolt assembly (Cub Cadet discription) and cause wear. Replace as needed.
3. Most times the retainer/ball assembly can be cleaned and reused.
4. I use a lite duty grease when I repack the steering assembly. The grease will fill in the areas when the steering gear and stud make contact. I use John Deere's corn header grease.
5. Most of International Harvester Cub Cadets have a plastic bushing at the top of the steering tube. I replace the bushing with the same bearing that I use in the front wheels of a IH Cub Cadet.
6. I use 2 washers, flat roller bearing and a lock nut to hold the lever and bolt assembly. It is cheaper and so far been trouble free for the last 8 years on 3 IH Cub Cadets (70-100-149).
Everyone that drives my Cubs thinks they have power steering.
Is is really possible to remove all the play from the steering assembly? Never have owned a new tractor, thus it's been my belief that at least 1" of play was normal. I will pull in all six tractors and get busy if it can be done.
Current Machines: Cub Cadet: 2082, 1862, 1541, 1440 John Deere: 100 Toro: 16-38 HXL