figured while i was pulling this engine down for inspection to rebuild, i'd detail some of the items that might make the job less daunting for some -
since removing the flywheel is a necessary step in changing the timing belt, i took some shots today while pulling it off
those that have done it, will notice i forgot to remove the ignition coil before putting the gear puller on the flywheel - wasn't a big deal as there aren't but a couple of 10MM bolts holding it on, but for those that haven't, it's easier to remove the ign coil first.
anyway, the shots should be self explanatory - this particular engine i picked up a few weeks ago in PA, the owner had cut it out of a tractor, ie cut the lower frame just behind the rear eng mounts - ordinarily, for someone changing their timing belt, they'll be pulling the engine off the frame altogether - i just left it on the chopped frame for convenience
in the first shot, the black plastic timing belt cover has been removed, and the flywheel puller bolted to the engine - btw, after going to the trouble of organizing three bolts of proper length to allow the gear puller claws to reach under the 3" round puller head, i found the three bolts that bolt the driveshaft coupling to the flywheel were the perfect length -
the long handle on the puller isn't necessary for pulling the flywheel, but it will be when i go to re-assemble, as i'll have to keep the flywheel from turning while i torque the flywheel nut. Only critical element on the the 3" round head (which were simply three 1/8" thick 3" washers) is to make sure the inside diameter of the 3" head is larger enough for the 23MM socket to pass thru to tighten the flywheel nut with.
2nd shot - gear puller on, getting ready to tighten and pull flywheel loose
next shot, flywheel is off - and the water boss that i mentioned in an earlier thread, that i thought was tapped for fan mounting - i ordered one of the shafts from honda for this engine and it fits perfect - it'll be in the next shot (i will be moving my radiator back to the rear of the engine, hopefully to keep debris from collecting in it, and even if it doesn't, it'll still be easier to clean the screen without getting off the tractor.
the next shot is with the fan shaft loosely attached to the waterpump boss - on the engine application that uses this shaft, the timing cover has a hole for the shaft but i'm thinking to run mine without any timing cover. it'll be easier to inspect that belt, maybe shoot it with some armour-all at end of season and let the moving air hit that engine to help it run a little cooler. I will need to order the fan from the other application engine as the direction of turn will be backwards on the back end of the engine. I will use this fan for proving the fitment in my junker 3813 frame -
last shot that will serve - close up of one of the stator coils - this is 2nd engine i've pulled the flywheel on and both had similiar condition coils where the wrapping was basically dried, cracked and dis-integrated off the coil. I work with epoxy a lot, and in looking closely at the wrapping i believe it's nothing more than paper saturated in epoxy resin (for insulation and to give the paper some strength) - on the earlier engine i wrapped it tight with electrician's tape one time to hold the remaining wrapping tight and then wrapped that with a layer of fiberglass tape, a couple of layers, the tape wetted with epoxy - basically recreating that protective shell
I didn't think of it today, but tomorrow i'll try to remember to take some shots of the timing marks on the timing sprocket and crank sprocket and their witness marks on the case