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Old 05-21-2007, 09:00 PM   post #1 of 22
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Question Slipping Snapper

Hi. Just bought a snapper hi-vac with a 11 hp briggs , 30 inch cut. I got it running after charging the battery and unsticking the float in the carb. It runs pretty good, although when you engage the blade the motor acts like it needs more throttle to keep up. Maybe the throttle needs adjusted, I have'nt looked that close yet. The big problem is it act likes the trans is slipping. I know these have the driven disk thing, it will move some, sometimes better than others. I checked the rubber wheel and it looks ok, no cracks or chunks missing. Oh yeah, it has zero reverse. So is it an adjustment or something? Or is it terminal?

Thanks.
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Old 05-21-2007, 09:25 PM   post #2 of 22
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Default Re: Slipping Snapper

I'm visualizing a pre-owned rear engine rider. If that is correct I would suggest the first thing you do is obtain a manual for your mower to save yourself alot of grief. It would be only a wild guess as to how many grubby little fingers has monkeyed with it and it's adjustments if it is a used piece of equipment. This forum can help you but the manual along with the forum is better. As for "terminal" probably not. They usually can be repaired.
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Old 05-21-2007, 10:08 PM   post #3 of 22
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Default Re: Slipping Snapper

Two things come to mind.

The distance from the drive surface of the shinny metal drive disc on the engine crankshaft to the top surface of the mower frame, where the engine sits, should be 3-7/8" to 4".

IF this mower has a "soft start" clutch, someone may have left the liner out of the inside of the wheel that has the rubber tire attached to it.

Oh yes, check the spring that holds the rubber tire drive ***'y up against the metal drive disc.

Will it not move in any gear, speed selection?

Walt Conner
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Old 05-21-2007, 11:38 PM   post #4 of 22
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Default Re: Slipping Snapper

Walt,

It will move some, but it acts like it is slipping. If I try to go up any kind of a hill it wont make it. Sometimes if I let the clutch out it will try to pull the front wheels off the ground, but other times it acts like it's never going to move. I checked for oil or something on the disc but it is clean.

First and second seem to pull better than the rest, and like I said earlier there is no reverse.
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Old 05-21-2007, 11:47 PM   post #5 of 22
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Default Re: Slipping Snapper

No reverse on a disc drive sounds like a mis-adjustment. The rubber wheel must move to the other side of center on the disc for reverse. I had this trouble with an old Snapper snow blower. Check the linkages out.
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Old 05-22-2007, 12:12 AM   post #6 of 22
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Default Re: Slipping Snapper

This may be a long shot but check your shifter handle. The part that attaches to the rod that comes through the frame from the transmission.
Mine was doing the same thing a couple weeks ago and the pin that holds the shifter to the rod had come loose and the shifter was half off the rod.
I repaired that and it worked like a champ.
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Old 05-22-2007, 12:17 AM   post #7 of 22
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Default Re: Slipping Snapper

If you are talking about the "disk drive" in the rear end,We had a Snapper LT12 (1987)tractor 42" cut,with the "disk drive" thing.

After years of mowing with this thing, we had to start putting "shims" type things on the "disk drive" thing, to make it "go"... (even when the disk was replaced with new)

We got a good 20 years out of the tractor, and retired it this summer.

Ask your Snapper dealer, about the shims, our dealer sold those to us, every year for the past 3-4 years.

Hope this helps. "DJ"
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Old 05-22-2007, 08:06 PM   post #8 of 22
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Default Re: Slipping Snapper

Thanks for some of the ideas guys, I'm going to check on some of that stuff soon!
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Old 07-31-2009, 12:59 PM   post #9 of 22
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Yikes Re: Slipping Snapper

Hello, how did this end ?

I have a compareable problem with my HiVac 8HP "tractor" (type G28086S).
Trying to finish up the yard before the rain got caught by
a bush and since then the forward, reverse and the brake
have no effect on the wheels anymore...
I was suspecting that it is the torn rubber wheel and exchanged it
without effect.
So now i think that either the transmission chain broke or
one of the bevel wheel pins inside broke and they have no more
connection to their axis.

So the question is: did anyone ever opened that chain case
and could tell me how to do it best and what is inside ?

THX a lot for your help.

Jan
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Old 07-31-2009, 04:25 PM   post #10 of 22
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Default Re: Slipping Snapper

Well there are a couple of chain cases, the center chain case and the case on the right hand side axle support. That one has a large and small chain sprocket for reduction and contains the differential.

I would not tear into either of these until you know you have a reason to. Stand the mower on the rear standards, taking proper precautions with the battery and gas tank. Put the drive in neutral, grasp both rear wheels, alternately pull and push them vigeriously. Do they feel connected together? Do they cause the rubber tired drive wheel to spin? If one turns freely, independently of the other, the tappered bolt you mentioned may be sheared OR the gear may have come off the axle inside the differential case. Does one wheel turn one way and the other opposit? They should, if not, differential may be bad or gear off one axle as said before.

Walt Conner
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Old 07-31-2009, 05:55 PM   post #11 of 22
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Default Re: Slipping Snapper

Walt,
thanks for the reply !
If i turn the wheel close to the differential the oposite one turns the other
way round. So i assume it is not the differential. But i have to cross check
tomorrow along with your other suggestions.
Meanwhile also found the parts manual on the Snapper homepage. Will take
me a while to understand the principles and locate the possibly defective or
lose part :-I

Thanks and might return on this later...

Jan
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Old 08-15-2009, 08:04 AM   post #12 of 22
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Default Re: Slipping Snapper

Hello,

meanwhile found out that the connection between the drive
disk and the outer hexagonal axis (Drive Hex Tube) seems to
be there. So the faulty part seems to be not within the chain case...

The differential on the other hand is also operational. Both wheels
have "contact" to each other.
If i start the motor with tires removed one sees that the axels slightly
turn but can be stopped easily by hand.

Any idea what to test before dissassembling the differential ?
And where to start this operation ? Remove from the fender side ?

Any help would be appreciated !

THANKS

Jan
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Old 08-15-2009, 08:46 AM   post #13 of 22
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Default Re: Slipping Snapper

I'll go along with Maybar--get a manual--There are several adjustments that can cause the problem you have,and without inst.to adjust these is mind bending.As Walt pointed out there is a "soft clutch" type that will take different and exact adjustments to correct.These are simple and very good mowers,but the ole hammer and baling wire tricks won't get it.
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Old 08-15-2009, 11:00 AM   post #14 of 22
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Default Re: Slipping Snapper

Thanks Dude, but this is NOT an adjustment problem nor a RTFM problem.

The question is (after some more testing) how the big gear wheel
(2-1158, #20 in the drawing in the parts manual) and the
long axle (#21) are connected together what does not
come out of the drawing ?
I can block the gear wheel and by that the transmission to the disk so i assume that
the small gear wheel and both chains and their sprocket wheels are intact.
Both "tires" have also connection to each other through the pinion gears.
Nevertheless no transmission between the big gear wheel and the axles !!??
The axles can be pushed back and forth along their axis about 5mm. Is this normal ?

THANKS

Jan
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Old 08-15-2009, 03:31 PM   post #15 of 22
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Default Re: Slipping Snapper

Ok,I pulled my parts manual for a NO.06092,rh & lh differential and from what I'm looking at, You will still need a manual to see and understand whats what inside the housing.
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