Re: Hydro-Gear 3000 photos and fluid change
After supper, I went out for one more try. I made sure the tractor was level and checked the fluid. Slow drip at the level-check hole, so all good. I'm pretty confident now there's the right amount of oil in it.
I also checked the motion control linkage, and it works exactly as before, moving the arm on the side of the transaxle. The clutch/brake linkage is not sticking, and the brake disc rotates with the rear wheels. The freewheel linkage moves the valve arm back and forth as it should. The valve arm felt the same as when I had the transaxle out, free for most of its range, and a slight click when fully open.
This time, I raised the rear wheels off the ground for the purge procedure, as this is what the Hydro-Gear service manual calls for (at least for a similar Hydro-Gear model I happened to find a manual for). First, forward and reverse with the bypass (freewheel) valve open, then forward and reverse with the bypass valve closed. Nothing.
I took a look underneath with the engine running (bypass open, wheels in the air), and saw that the drive belt was not slipping, was still routed correctly, and the cooling fan and pulley were spinning as usual.
I turned off the engine and stared at the thing for a while. I wondered if I'd forgotten something when I put everything back together, but I just can't think of anything. I took the vent hose fitting out, but that's all back together. I took the gerotor (charge pump) housing off, but that's back on, shaft lined up properly with the flat on the inner gear. Could I have put the pump housing on 180 degrees around? I don't think so, at least from what I can tell. Nothing I've found mentions it having a correct or incorrect orientation. Ugh.
Looks like I'll be calling Hydro-Gear tomorrow.
2007 Cub Cadet 6284, 2005 Craftsman GT5000