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post #1 of 6 Old 05-12-2010, 09:05 AM Thread Starter
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Drag Link

I have a 1985 lawn tractor Model #917.255732.
Problem where the drag link goes to the left side spindle for the steering comes apart. On the drag link there is a socket that goes to the ball on the spindle this is kept in place by a piece of rubber that goes from the drag link to where the ball is bolted fast to the spindle is this stock or not. can not find it in manual or any where i looked for it .
If you had this problem how did you fix it?
Thanks Bud
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post #2 of 6 Old 05-12-2010, 01:42 PM
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Re: Drag Link

I tried looking at the diagram on Sears parts site, but the image was too fuzzy to really tell. However, I suggest you look closely at the steering drawing in your manual and compare it closely to your parts list--see if you can determine every part in that assembly. Even if you list a few extra parts because of lack of clarity as to where they go, you may be able to eliminate some non-existant parts to help you answer your question.

My own slightly older GTV actually has two tie-rods and isn't set up the same way.

JERRY, N3AA

1982 GTV-11 917.253715
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post #3 of 6 Old 05-13-2010, 09:15 AM
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Re: Drag Link

The steering cross link on my 1967 Suburban failed at the left ball joint. The socket portion is integral to the link, so replacing the rod end isn't an option. I fabbed a new link from 1/2" square tube with 3/8"-24 threaded studs welded into the ends. Ball joint rod ends were purchased from McMaster Carr.

On mine, there's a rubber dust shield that protects the ball joint from contamination, but that has nothing to do with retaining the ball in the socket.



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post #4 of 6 Old 05-13-2010, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Drag Link

Thanks for the in put we use mMcMaster- carr at work i will have to check what i can use
Bud
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post #5 of 6 Old 05-26-2010, 10:35 PM
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Re: Drag Link

I just did a quick fix with a similar drag link issue. I've done this many times before and although it is shade tree it will sometimes last for years.

All you got to to is take the ball out then use a metal cutting saw and cut across the ball cup. Cut at least half way through the socket. Replace the ball and then beat the end of the drag link with a mallet closing the cut you made with the saw. If you have the means, you can weld a tack on both sides of the cup to strengthen it like I did. Even without a weld it should last a good long while or at least to you get a new joint or new link.

1947 David Bradley 5751
David Bradley 575121
1967 Sears Suburban 12
Case 446 Hydriv
-48" deck
-44" rear discharge deck
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-41" tiller
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post #6 of 6 Old 05-27-2010, 12:47 PM
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Re: Drag Link

I've simply sawed off the ends of the draglink the proper amount,and welded a grade 8 or allen head 3/8" fine thread bolt onto the ends of the draglink--now you can buy the tie rod ends or "heim joints" at Lowes or Tractor Supply ,etc,for about 7 bucks apeice and if there is ever a "next time",replacement will be simple, and cheap..


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