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First Wheel Horse. Couldn't pass it up.

4K views 52 replies 5 participants last post by  Adam R. 
#1 ·
Well today I happened upon a wonderful find (well, hopefully) A WH 252 H complete, not currently running, supposedly rebuilt last year but was not finished. It obviously needs alot of tlc but overall, I think it's a good little project. Oh did I mention....It was free except the gas to go pick it up. It has to sit for the next week until I get time off work to start the clean up, look at all of the pieces in the bag, order some replacement parts, and see if it will turn over. I'm hoping for the best. It did spin when I turned the shaft. Just wanted to share. I'll add some updates next weekend when I get time to play with it.
 

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#5 ·
Usually it's the 300 to 500 series WH's that qualify as a Garden Tractor; it's the frame (Welded angle iron) and the rear tires (5 lug nuts compared to just one center bolt), BUT, your 252 can do a lot: A rear Tiller or front Snowthrower might be pushing the capabilities of your 252 Frame and engine, but you can push snow and tow on reasonably flat surfaces fine. You've got the same speed as the garden tractors, just not the weight, but it's really great for mowing with tighter turns and a lighter footprint.
Great find and even better price, have fun with it, it's still a great worker . . .
 
#9 ·
Good for you on the find--Adam...But I would fix and use it first off, just for what it was designed for...mowing grass..

Now--as you do get it running--I'll bet you become quite attached to it--and down the road look for a 'bigger brother' to do real grunt work...You will notice it has many similarities....
That' s just my .02--but I've had a few--here/there--and they 'grow' on you--

glenn (that other glenn):sidelaugh
 
#10 ·
I like your style glenn27. I think that is what I will do. I have been reading a lot about them on this and different forums. I do have a question however, (I still need to research this idea) is there a bigger deck setup that can be used for this machine? I am aware that power would be an issue, as well as clearance between the front and rear wheels, pulley set up, lift linkage, etc... but has anyone tried to power a bigger deck? Or would that be more of a hassle than its worth.
 
#12 ·
Outstanding steddy. Quick question for you. What model, size, or whatever snowblower will yours power? Also is it hard to reroute that mid pto to the front to power that blower?
We do not usually get enough snow in oklahoma to consider a snow blower but knowledge is power lol
 
#20 · (Edited)
The factory had some great engineers and they tended to design well, we can modify our tractors some but we really need to know what we're doing. To put larger implements or things on them might be pushing things too much.
I believe the decks for your the 200-series had a little different hanger system than the larger series' did, plus more weight stressing on some spots might fail.
Major modifications can get very tricky and often create more problems than their worth. Besides "Red Square", you can google your (complete) tractor name and see a lot of images of it there.
Good Luck . . . Glen

Note: When American Motors purchased/took over Wheel Horse in the early 90's, they wanted the patents and Engineers . . . both were incorporated in the 2000 Jeep Liberty series vehicles,
when TORO took the factory over they didn't get many engineers and moved everything to WI. You can still see the basic "Wheel Horse theme" of design in the blue (formally FORD) smaller garden Holland tractors sold today if you stop by a dealership, and the new 48" mower decks will still fit under a '73–'08 older Wheel Horse, the deck is just heavier-duty now.
 
#22 ·
Very interesting. Thanks for advice and history lesson. Yessir for now it will just be a mower. Well first item of business is a motor rebuild, I looked inside the valves and it is full of water, rust, and wasp nests. Once I get it apart I will see if it is worth trying to get that kawasaki going again or get a Kohler 18hp my buddy offered me.
 
#23 ·
So after a few hours of cleaning dirt, grime, and some oil off, I cannot get the engine shroud off. Stripped 2 screw heads holding the cover over the shroud. I have to go get a stripped screw remover set. I used penetration fluid and still no luck. I cut in a slot and tried to use a flat head, stripped that soft metal even more. Then my battery shpwed up. (Buddy brought one over for fixing his mower) So I then decided to piece it back together completely and see if the engine would turn at all. Solenoid clicked but nothing moved, tough luck I guess. When I get more time I'll pull the starter off and see if she turns at all. Pick updates will come tomorrow when I make some progress
 
#25 ·
I drilled the screws out and pulled the shroud off. Cleaned out wasp and the mouse nest. Mice chewed through the kill switch wire and the spark plug wire. I spun the (stator/alternator wheel that is face up and has some sort of fins and a magnet on it? Or whatever it is called, im still new to alot of correct terminlogy, but it spun somewhat freely, I believe it has compression. Ill do a proper compression test tomorrow after I pull the front of the engine off (metal piece that the spark plug screws into and covers the valves and piston head) and clean out the gunk that was being pumped out when I was spinning the stator flywheel. Im sure its nasty in there. I'll have to do some research and see if i can get the "within operable limits" diameter of the cylinder and piston head. Oh and I pulled the starter off, it's dead. So on order list is the piece the mice chewed up, and a new starter. I'll try the old junkyard tomorrow and see if I can find what I need there before I order it new. With any luck I can get it running tomorrow. I checked all the fuel lines, they need replaced but will do to get it running. After that, the plan is to pull the fuel tank and drain it, then run some fresh fuel through there to help clean it out. The inline Fuel filter needs replaced, I'll grab one tomorrow when I run to town.

On the transaxle/transmission, I can see where a very old leak was. I mean all of the underneath is covered with fluid and grime. That job will have to wait until I get the engine operable. Once it runs, I'll turn my focus on the transaxle. In due time, after the transaxle is finished, I will focus on the clean up, stripping it just about completely down, sand what little rust is on the body and start that process. I know I am a long ways until that point but hey, gotta have goals or nothing will get done. If you guys have any advice for me, i.e. what to look for before throwing on said parts and attempting to crank it over, I am all ears.
 
#26 ·
That engine has lots of hope, given your information. It's not seized, since you can turn the flywheel by hand, and like you say it has compression. As an engine needs air, spark, and fuel to run, the most difficult/expensive repair is usually the "air" aspect of it (sucking air into the cylinder, compressing it, and expelling the combustion exhaust). Sounds like you might have that one covered. Usually if an engine is indeed toast, you can't turn the flywheel and hear/feel air movement like you do. However, if it's a twin cylinder engine, (which I don't know that model well enough to make that call), it's still possible one cylinder isn't functioning. In that case, an engine swap might be the best way to proceed.
 
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