I picked up a 140 a month ago from MrBeef. I have too many projects going right now but last night I started on the 140. My future plans are to make it an H2 or H3, add power steering, a 3PH, install my Johnson Loader and maybe some other ideas.
How I bought it:
First, I'm adding an extra set of hydraulic outlets to the front:
It is great that the holes are already there in the back plate. Just need to remove the outside panel and add an oval for the right ports:
Drawing out the oval to match the other side:
I would say to use the power assist system from a 400, it will work much better compatibility wise and should feel like steering normally with the loader on. I would suggest adding just H2 so the hydraulic system doesn't have to be modified. The tranny will already support the 2nd spool. If you could find lights as well, that might be a good addition too.
Lights will definitely be an addition. I have a PS system from a JD 345 in my shop, so I will probably try to use that. I have the front lines from a 317 so that will make the front hydraulics pretty easy. It will probably start out as an H2 - just to make it functional with my equipment right now, but it will be an H3 someday (especially with the 3PH & rear dual hyd outlets). I love to modify things so my plans are to go kind of crazy on this thing over time. Maybe even a 3020 like tribute tractor?
I agree, but I have the H2 set-up and don't want to spend the $ for the H3 valve. It is pretty simple to switch between the two valves. Maybe I can do an H2 & H1 valve hooked together for an H3.
Finished cutting the oval out tonight. It isn't perfect but it will work. I drilled two 1 1/8 holes with a step drill bit and then cut out the center with a jig saw and finished it off by hand with a file.
A couple questions for someone. What spark plug should this Kohler take? I want to replace it right away. I changed the engine oil tonight - Is 10W-30 ok? I will change the hydro oil and filter next week.
The oil should be straight 30 weight, unless its constantly below 20, you wouldn't have to change it. The spark plug that the local mower shop recommends is Champion H10C. I use it and have never had a problem with it.
I added a square tube receiver (scrap tubing I had left from an ATV snowplow push tube frame) today so that I can pull things easier. I figure this way it will work with the hitch in the factory position or flipped over with a raised receiver to get my trailer level. I have the same square tube on my 318 as well - and I really like it. I have this raised receiver and a straight one as well. My welding job was far from my normal work today for some reason :dunno:, but it is strong, and it will get the job done.
I added a square tube receiver (scrap tubing I had left from an ATV snowplow push tube frame) today so that I can pull things easier. I figure this way it will work with the hitch in the factory position or flipped over with a raised receiver to get my trailer level. I have the same square tube on my 318 as well - and I really like it. I have this raised receiver and a straight one as well. My welding job was far from my normal work today for some reason :dunno:, but it is strong, and it will get the job done.
If you take a look at WFM site, and do a search for "Yoder 140 Steering", there is a great thread on how to adapt power steering to a closed frame JD tractor using only a steering column orbital valve, and a rock shaft cylinder. It is an elegantly simple system, and keeps everything inside the frame. From the outside, you wouldn't know it had been converted. I'm in the process of doing the same to a 140 myself along with a Vanguard 18hp motor swap.
Now that is sweet. I think I'm going to have to do this using my 345 steering valve. I was just laying under the tractor last week thinking about if something like this was possible?
Got the carb off to clean it. It stopped taking in fuel a month or so ago and won't start with out a little starting fluid. Now I need to figure out what carb kit to get. It appears to be a Carter carb. I found a number on it: C-275369. Any idea what part numbers I need for a carb kit?
For a Carter 30 I'd go to Millers and get a kit. Also route around that site if you need a throttle shaft bushing....good idea to replace it when rebuilding one of those. They do wear out and leak vacuum. http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/a1carb.htm
As stated earlier; WHY fart around with that ?? . I only restored 11 John Deere 140 s. The 140 is NOT built for a Loader;; If one is put on it It is near impossable to steer;; The front End is NOT made for a loader . I have repaired Broken frames, on the 140, (loader Related) Yes some will dissagree. Well friends; I had 2 of the 140 with loaders. I shell repeat They are not built for loaders. With a load you cannot steer the darn thing. ( no power Steering) Second. By using the 140 hydraulics You need to have your lunch there. By todays standerds it takes Forever To pump the Oil/hyd. into the Rams. You will need an Independent pump, It will have its own set of levers. . Go to the 318 series. it can handle it.
As stated earlier; WHY fart around with that ?? . I only restored 11 John Deere 140 s. The 140 is NOT built for a Loader;; If one is put on it It is near impossable to steer;; The front End is NOT made for a loader . I have repaired Broken frames, on the 140, (loader Related) Yes some will dissagree. Well friends; I had 2 of the 140 with loaders. I shell repeat They are not built for loaders. With a load you cannot steer the darn thing. ( no power Steering) Second. By using the 140 hydraulics You need to have your lunch there. By todays standerds it takes Forever To pump the Oil/hyd. into the Rams. You will need an Independent pump, It will have its own set of levers. . Go to the 318 series. it can handle it.
Wow. First of all - you didn't read the earlier post, correctly. Secondly, the H3 set-up is not for the loader as you assumed, it for use with a snowblower, aerator, 3PH etc... (plus - I just want it, which is allowed the last time I checked) As earlier stated - this 140 will have power steering when I'm done. When the loader goes on - it will probably be run on external hydraulics. As for the front end, this is a later model with a stronger front end. As for not being made for a loader - you can say that about any tractor of any size, because I can find you 20 idiots that can break any tractor with a loader on it. It's all opinion and how it is used. Growing up - we had a neighbor (grain farmer) that would bring over his loader for my brother to weld up because he broke it or the tractor all the time. And our loaders never had a weld on them anywhere - and we used our loaders all day every day on our dairy farm. Some people know how to use tractors & equipment, and some don't! So, I don't feel any piece of equipment should be evaluated based on the use of people that have no business running equipment.
I didn't Post my earlier Post to up set anyone.. In my picture File you can view the Buckalu; That we made. A ton 30/40 For the 140 and 300 seriea and the same For the 425/445/455 tractor. We have books filled with Good and bad points of all the garden tractors.; and we/i have started with a 140 . put a larger twin Engine into it along with a better breaking system along with power steering. Up dated the trans. after all that work. by todays standerds it is still in adequite; The 140 was built perfect for/in its time.. Like i stated I have showroomed 11 140s. and am quite fermiluer with them.. I am only stating the facts as I found them. and Have NO intent of insulting anyone. Life is good. exept when. ____-_--_--
Not upset. But, I think you are missing the point. If I wanted one up too today standards - I would buy a new tractor. But that just isn't any fun. I'd rather build an old one that will work for my needs and not someone else's.
It can handle a loader fine. That's why they have 1" spindles. Even at that, I have seen MF's with smaller spindles and loaders. They work fine as long as they are used as intended. If I were putting a loader on mine (planned on it until I bought my case) I would find a set of those 8" bolt on wheels off those Deere zero turns so it has tapered roller bearings that are serviceable. Also, they are not impossible to steer without power steering, my case is about the size of a 400 series Deere, but weighs A LOT more. It does not have power steering and its just fine, although power steering would be nice. Here is a picture fir reference:
Can anyone help me figure out which carb kit I need for this 140 with Carter 30 carb with C-275369 on it?
Here is my K321 engine tag:
A previous poster said to call A-1 Miller. This is what their website shows, but it lists two Kohler parts numbers (25 757 01-S & 25 757 02-S) which appear to look like they contain about the same thing, so I'm pretty sure I need one or the other. I tried calling them 5 times over the last couple weeks with no answer and no chance to leave a message.
I've tried to look it up on www.partstree.com, but can't find one for my engine spec number of 60113a.
I would like to get this ordered and put back together. I've tried just cleaning it, but I need a new fuel baffle shield and float valve still sticks once in while.
Thanks for any help & assistance anyone can provide!
Sounds like we are both having carb problems with the 140. While I have the Walbro carb on mine I did do a little research on the Kohler/Carter kits I think something like this should work for your carb
Subscribed. Interesting work you're doing here. :fing32:
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