Hey all, I have some questions regarding the performance you are seeing with tillers on both gas and diesel X7's. I have never seen on in action locally.
How much will the tillers throw the tractor around in compacted or sod laden ground? My current X530 gets pushed around readily if the tiller contacts some especially hard ground or a root it can't cut. I would imagine the extra weight of the 7's would counteract this to some extent.
How much does a 647 (or similar aftermarket) tiller load down an x7? More interested in the responses from gas variant owners here, do you have to crawl through material or can you move through it at a good clip?
I would presume the three point hung tillers would do a better job of staying engaged because the three point forces the tiller into the ground vs the lift setting the tiller down and letting the weight of the tiller do the work. Is that correct?
Thanks for your time!
A tiller isn't really designed to break unbroken ground, although you can do it that way. You should either plow or rip the ground first, then use the tiller to "grind it up". You get better results with less work, and it's easier on the drivetrain. The weight of the tiller is what engages it, not downforce from the lift, which the X7's don't have, like DieselPowered mentioned. My X748 handles a 50" rototiller just fine. I have a reverse rotation unit, it turns opposite of the direction you pull it, and does a fantastic job preparing a garden for planting. You can see how the X7 handles it, the tiller weighs around 330 pounds. You can also hear that the engine doesn't lug down much at all, even with the tiller buried in the freshly plowed and somewhat wet dirt. I will say that 4WD is a big help here; I don't have loaded tires, and with the tiller in deep, I spin quite a bit and have to use the traction lock all the time in 2WD, but hardly ever in 4WD.
I sometimes rent out my tractor (with me driving, of course) to till gardens for people in Spring. Lots of times I'll get there, there won't be a garden. The customer wants me to make one for them. Tilling a grassy area wasn't terribly bad, but it took several passes to get the ground cut deep enough to plant, and to shred the turf enough to allow it to be easily raked clean. Bare ground was a real pain, usually it was like tilling a paved road
. I quickly learned to take my plow whenever I went to till a garden; if it was "virgin" soil, I'd plow first, then till. Usually it only took one pass with the tiller to make a good seed bed.
I made this video about 3 years ago:
I'm interested to hear what diesel owners have to say, I just assumed that a diesel would run the tiller just fine...
The gasser in my 530 sometimes struggles with the 30 inch mechanical tiller, such as working through wet heavy material, you can hear the motor chug a bit. Got me thinking since the motors in the 530 and say a 738 are similar in size. I know it isn't a direct comparison for a number of reasons so that's why I was asking.
Just so im clear with what you guys are saying, the three point will set something down but will not hold it down? My experience with three points is with large equipment like haybine's where there is so much weight on the tongue that it would never lift up unless you actually used the hydraulics to lift it. By that then if the tiller hit something hard, such a large rock the three point would allow it to lift up and over (while also wreaking havoc on the tines,etc) instead of simply staying put and forcing the rear end of the tractor off the ground?
Having the tiller free floating allows it to bounce when it hits a root or buried rock. Ground speed and the tiller's rotation is what allows it to cut, the skids determine how deep per pass. A belt driven tiller will cause more variation in engine speed, since the power is coming directly from the crankshaft and not through the hydrostatic transmission, like the larger machines will have. To protect the driveline from hard shocks, a shear pin or slip clutch should be used. I have a slip clutch on the driveshaft of my tiller.