Howdy, great site here! I've already learned a bunch about these green machines here and want to thank everyone for contributing. A few weeks ago I signed up and put up my intro post right after getting this beast home. I was hoping to be back with this follow up post a week later but it took longer than expected to get back for the attachments and misc stuff. Anyway, here's the initial haul followed by a shot of the second trip, not shown are two tow-behinds (a spreader and a spike aerator) that look to be of the agrifab-like variety.
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Lucky for me this thing had the rear PTO setup from the factory and included the whole sha-bang for that but the shaft needs bearings etc. and I'm not sure how to mount that yet. In addition to the attachments I got the front weight bracket (with a hitch receiver already welded on the bottom) along with 6 weights and the lock rod too!
I won't tell you what I paid for all this, I think you'd hate me but I will say I was wearing a ski mask during most of the negotiating process!:tango_face_devil:
OK, OK, it was $500 USD cash plus 35 hours of semi-skilled labor, of which I've already earned aprox 10 hours and I haven't broken a sweat on that yet:tango_face_grin:
OK, she's gone :imnotlist here's another shot during the work in progress. Please pardon that she's missing her pants but I like naked tractors and this was a temporary rig so I could scoot around in the yard after initial test and tune. Oh did I mention I absolutely despise the giant seat pan they put on these things? Like really hate, hate, hate it!
I don't consider myself being anywhere near all-knowing when it comes to Deeres, but I do know enough to see a screaming deal when I see one. Congratulations on the great buy! I get the feeling that you aren't very fond of seat pans.:tango_face_grin:
My arms are still a bit sore, mostly from pinching myself but also from lifting that dang seat pan on/off a few times! It's my fault though and not a really a design complaint. I'm clumsy and really struggled with how the pan gets hung between the tank neck and tower - scratches galore, but hey, it's a tractor right?!?
This deal came with two catches - one was I don't have my shed built yet and the seller couldn't store anything for me since we were working on clearing out his barn (part of the labor payment). The second catch was worse as the seller refused to let me work on it or check it out beyond just looking. Once I saw the crud in the tank I knew I was on my own there but he made the offer and as much as I hate to buy without hearing something run I was willing to to risk it. Sadly, for the next few months this stuff will sit outside under a tarp and I really hate doing that but it was a "now or never" deal so.....
Yesterday I finally got to the compression test (B43G) and I came up with 125 psi rt side and 122 psi lt side with cold, dry cylinders so I think I'm OK if I did it right! After my usual magic wandery, she starts and run like a champ now and my only concern for now are oil leaks and a noticeable vibration at half throttle and up. I still have lots to check, it could be loose engine mount bolts for all I know but I'm feeling blessed to have this thing anyhow!
My arms are still a bit sore, mostly from pinching myself but also from lifting that dang seat pan on/off a few times! It's my fault though and not a really a design complaint. I'm clumsy and really struggled with how the pan gets hung between the tank neck and tower - scratches galore, but hey, it's a tractor right?!?
Here are a couple of tips:
1. Remove the lower bolts that attach the side panels to the the tower (sometimes when you lift the pan up it catches on them).
2. Put tape under the hydraulic control arms (so it does not scratch when you lift the pan up).
3. Removing the rear wheels decreases how high you need to lift the pan and makes it easier to get on and off.
4. I always remove the seat to make the pan lighter and easier to manage.
5. When you reinstall it, be aware of hitting the brake mechanism on the right hand side. You have to lift it up and over.
Lastly, the 318 pan is the easiest one for me to take on and off. The 214 was harder. The 420 and 430 pans have the differential lock assembly to mess with.
Thanks to the knowledge base here I knew where to start after the fuel system was done and got to the belly screen. After seeing some horror stories here I feared the worst but it wasn't bad at all and certainly better than what I found behind the tins on the little Kawee engine on the leaf sucker thingy -
mg:
I think the good news is I have enough brain cells left to not run an engine until I check for this stuff and that I didn't see any of it burned up. With that, my guess is the mouse house was built but the engine wasn't run afterwards. Seller said this stuff has sat for at least 8 years! More magic wandery and that little motor runs like a champ too!
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No after shot but I decided to paint the belly screen green instead of black. I reasoned that my old eyes could use the higher contrast for crud checking in the future and I thought it was a good chance to try Rustoleum's rattle can JD Green too. The color seems a bit light to me but it flowed out really nice considering the cool temp in the garage so I'm thinking that cancels the fact that it doesn't cover very well - 3/4 of the can went onto this thing but what do I know?
:tango_face_glasses:
The two on top look like supports for one of the attachments but I'm not sure which. later I'll get a closer look at the tiller, I'm hoping they go on there somehow and keep it from resting on the tines in storage?
The two on the bottom I think just came along for the ride as they don't appear to have ever been painting like the usual Deere stuff that was included.
The two on top look like supports for one of the attachments but I'm not sure which. later I'll get a closer look at the tiller, I'm hoping they go on there somehow and keep it from resting on the tines in storage?
Have owned & operated a 30 hydraulic tiller (the front, mid-mount "belly" pump version) with my 318 for years & have never seen those things. OEM? Can you ask the seller about them?
Sweet deal!! Grease every zerk paying close attention to the driveshaft U joints, run it for a few hours low to no load to get everything moving, since you're way ahead of money saving grab some filters/fluids and get some more pics and vids of it!! Talk about turn key grins, fun for all seasons.
Thanks for the advice, I was just going over it with the greaser and the more I looked the more fittings I found - wow - they're everywhere! :tango_face_grin: I've got a list going for a visit to the dealer, filters and filuid are right at the top!
The front zerk on the driveshaft was a pain to get to and didn't want to take any at first but eventually I got it. Now I'm trying to get the spill-over grease out of it, it looks like it might get throw off when running and clog up some fins on the nearby cooler (Mikey Don't Like that)!
Well you folks deserve most of the credit, with just a bit of poking around in here I learned something like ellevnty billion things in no time and heck, I thought I knew everything already!!
:tango_face_wink: :tango_face_grin:
I have a 317 and that has a lot of hidden zerks, a few under the bottom screen and such, the folks who own a 318 may have a few no-see-um's but if you have a manual it will show all. PM me for tech manual if you need one.
I think I got all the zerks but I'd bet one will show up later! Thanks for the offer on the manual, I have a pdf of the TM1590 manual that's dated May '85 if you have something different please let me know. What I'd really like are the attachment manuals and something like a user manual so I don't have to scratch my head so much!! :00000061:
Here are a couple of tips:
...............
Lastly, the 318 pan is the easiest one for me to take on and off. The 214 was harder. The 420 and 430 pans have the differential lock assembly to mess with.
Thanks for all the tips on that, it will be a big help in the future. Right now I'm thinking of using a large steel plate weight (tiny back door off a early melroe bobcat) as a seat base and leaving the pan off so it can go into the queue for restoration.
Now that's funny! The first thing I thought was a 2x board spanning the supports but I had the perfect ply scrap sitting there so that got the nod instead. (confession - I really wanted room for a pad, I'm a hard head but not a hard ***!)
Great find and super deal! The snowblower looks mint, tiller nice too, deck well used but serviceable. Are the front tires bald or is it just the picture? As for no garage I've stored stuff under tarps for years, the key is to make sure there is ventilation so moisture evaporates and doesn't condense and hasten oxidation. A coating of Fluid Film helps too. Get yourself a handful of these plastic tent grommets, they come in two pieces and snap together. Put them in on the sides of the tarp that hang vertically, hardly any rain gets in but moisture evaporates easily, I use 3 on each side for a tractor alone.
It seems these are your first few posts, sorry for not saying welcome to the forum before so Welcome to the forum. This is one heck of a way to jump in and start a thread!! The manual you have should be fine, keep the pics coming in.
It seems these are your first few posts, sorry for not saying welcome to the forum before so Welcome to the forum. This is one heck of a way to jump in and start a thread!! The manual you have should be fine, keep the pics coming in.
Here's my gauge mod. I know ya'll have been here and done that already but with this being my first pressure fed small engine (first twin too) I knew from day one I was going to add a gauge and I got to it soon after the tins were peeled back for cleaning.
EDIT - Cold reading is just under 30psi, Hot is where you see it, right about 16ish. That's OK right? EDIT to the editor - I despise that cheesy plastic gauge tubing and reach for copper every time now and me being a dummy, I keep the sender for the idgit light too :tango_face_wink:
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Now I DARE YOU to tell me you're not nutty over these older SW gauges, I know I can't be THE ONLY ONE that's fruit loops over these beauties! This came off my psi test rig that usually hides in the greasy drawer. I figured this thing deserved it and needed something after the fantastic plastic pos from the parts store failed after I hit the first bump (I returned that heap o crap and gave myself ten lashings just for trying!).
Ok I'll get the spring and not try drilling for the zerk - thank you!
I had some of the other info but not all of those pics and thanks again for that but lets talk about the last one please. :tango_face_grin:
That's the image I was trying to explain before regarding the mouning options for the tiller. Look under the column marked "Mounting Holes" and see how it starts with letters and switches to numbers (reading top>down). I'm sure it's something simple but I'm not getting why they reference numbers instead of staying with the letters (like top hole b with bottom hole d does xxx and so on). Do they simply mean holes A&B = #1 & #2 and holes C&D = 3&4 ?
Sorry if this is clear as mud, I'm feeling I'll learn it the hard way eventually :fing20:
The mounting holes chart messed me up too when I first saw it in my manual. It's a typo. I think 1 is A, 2 is B, 3 is C, and 4 is D if I remember right.
The mounting holes chart messed me up too when I first saw it in my manual. It's a typo. I think 1 is A, 2 is B, 3 is C, and 4 is D if I remember right.
Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
OK, just kidding but remember there's a labor trade in the deal too! I know I said semi-skilled labor but where I'm from that includes brain salad surgery so that's gotta count for something right??
:tango_face_devil:
Love the SW gauge! As for the oil pressure gauge and idiot light when I raced we always ran a gauge and a light, during a race you'll miss a gauge reading but when a light comes on you're more likely to see it. Saved a couple of engines that way.
I've read on here to use 15w40 diesel oil during temperatures between 10 and 100 degrees F and 10w30 between 0 and 80 degrees F. My rule of thumb for small engines has been 7 psi per 1000 rpm minimum. You might try heavier oil but I don't think over 40 weight. Others may have their own thoughts.
Thanks for the info, I agree on the redundant warning light, it saved the bacon for me once before. I have 5W40 synthetic in it now, maybe a 10Wxx would be better but the important thing is knowing that psi is OK. I was thinking my usual hope for 10psi per 1krpm (with the hot rod stuff) was a little lofty but I'm no air cooled guru so thanks again :fing32:
Wow this place is awesome! Thanks for that info guys, I had no idea there were other stands for the MCS but wish I did, moving that thing around (off tractor) felt like wrestling a drunken grizzly bear! Makes good sense too, it has another pair of stands on the front near the hitch and from what I can tell if you use those right (I didn't!) they should offer a pivot point to rotate the beast onto the rear hitch mounts. These blacks ones look like they're storage stands that compensate for the heavy rearward weight offset. Handy dandy:fing32:
I will definitely cherish these extras and now I'm even more thankful that the PO was very diligent about keeping all the odd bits together. Today I discovered the special mounting tabs for the front weight bar and used those and a little Kentucky windage to install the front weight mount on the rear! Woohoo!
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Maybe I'm a ******* but I don't have a need for a 3 point but need the weight back there. With a min FEL in the works and no plans to use the deck until fall for leaf duty with the MCS, this will probably stay on the back until I need the tiller.
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