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post #1 of 12 Old 03-19-2017, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
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Tractor Transport with Attachments

Just wanted to see how others handle this situation. Sorry for the extensive writing here. My question is more around the procedure you use to move your equipment on a trailer over the road not so much the trailer itself, it's type, or size. My tractor is a JD X748.

When I load the tractor up, if the deck is only on, I simply lower the deck and strap the tractor itself down not touching the deck and lock the tractor brakes. Note: Tractor brakes are applied in all scenarios below too.

If the loader is on I put a piece of plywood on the trailer floor and lower the loader just enough to press barely(not in float mode) and I do use the loader arms as the front strapping point on the tractor and the rear axle as the rear strapping point. -->Here is where my main question is.. in this situation my rear ballast is always on the 3PH. If it's the box blade I now lower it to the floor like the loader and run a strap to it for stability but if it's simply suitcase weights I lower them to the depth stop and run a strap to them to try and keep the hitch from bouncing on the road.

The tiller scares me the most as it is heavy and hangs out far and therefore exerts more leverage on tractor. My tiller is a JD647 and the 2 retractable support feet do not keep the tines off the ground so I do not want to lower it all the way on the tines taking the weight off the hitch. I can only lower it to the depth stop and strap it just like I do with the suitcase weights. I move the tractor with the tiller about 2 times a year about 50 miles each time.

I have broken the depth stop rod once already on the x748 but I attributed that to a defect and/or the extreme vibration from running a 3PH attached cyclone rake leaf system over 3 rough acres as that is the moment when it broke 2 years ago.

Maybe I am over thinking this but.... One time after transporting the unit with the box blade on(happen to be hanging in the air during transport) I could not get the I-match to release the box blade as the I match top hook you can remove and adjust moved slightly and was causing a pinch. To loosen those two I match adjusting nuts I had to use a long breaker bar so they were plenty tight. I am not sure if the work I was doing with the box blade caused the pinch or if it was bouncing during the transport.

I am about at the season where I need to take it to till some family gardens but again find myself questioning if I should be building some sort of transport spacer/cradle for the tiller to rest in when lowered. That is sort of a pain for just a couple trips a year?? Also I would love to someday have the 60in JD broom too which I would sometimes transport but I think that has wheels to rest on if needed to avoid the extra leverage.

Thanks for reading and any input!!

Previous:
2008 JD X728

1998 Cub Cadet 2185 48" MMM 42" Snow Plow...RIP

Current:
2012 John Deere X748SE
3pt hitch, Rear PTO, 7 Iron, 54 Snow Plow, 647 Tiller,
45 Loader, Kwik Forks, iMatch, Heavy Hitch, Cyclone Rake Z-10,
Box Blade BB2048L, and Rear Blade RB2060L
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post #2 of 12 Old 03-19-2017, 06:36 PM
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Re: Tractor Transport with Attachments

Always put all the attachments firmly on the trailer floor. If you're worried about damaging the trailer floor, put down some scrap lumber. If the tiller won't reach the floor, put some blocks under it. Suitcase weights are probably ok, but even then, it would be best to take them off and throw them in the truck. Even if you leave the hydraulics holding something up, they will leak down fairly quickly. I wouldn't use the depth stop to hold up a tiller or box blade over bumps at speed for 50 miles, either.

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445 with 54" & 60" decks, 54 Power Flow, 47 snow blower, 54 blade, Curtis hard cab, weights, chains, loaded turfs, v61 fronts.
445 with 40 FEL, cat. 0 3pt, rear pto, 4ft bush hog, heavy hitch, loaded Tru Powers, v61 fronts.
140 H3 with 48 deck, 54 front blade, 54C grader blade, loaded Firestone 23 deg. rear ags, loaded tri-rib fronts
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post #3 of 12 Old 03-19-2017, 07:35 PM
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Re: Tractor Transport with Attachments

How long is your trailer, Maverick? Single, or double axle? Where the tractor is secured should balance the load over the trailer axle(s) with about 150-200 pounds of tongue weight.

I frequently haul my X748 from my house to my Mom's, about 20 miles each way. Sometimes I'll have the loader and something on back as ballast (usually my tiller or box blade), sometimes the PowerFlow and MC519. On occasion, I've hauled the X748 and my GT235 together. They pretty much fill up my 14' tandem trailer.

With loader and tiller installed, I can back the tractor on until the tiller is against the front end of the trailer. I drop the tiller, and dump the bucket so the lip is against the trailer deck and starting to lift the front tires. I strap it down by the 3-point arms with ratchet straps pulled toward the trailer front. The bucket keeps the tractor from shifting, I rarely strap the front down with the loader in place. The tractor's weight balance is perfect in this position.

If I only have the tractor and mower, I center it over the front trailer axle, lock the brakes, drop the mower deck, and strap the rear at the bottom of the frame near where the 3-point arms attach, and use straps from the loader's crossbar (permanently attached to the tractor) to secure the other end. I always back my tractor on the trailer, and drive straight off.

If I haul both machines, I back the X748 on first, then drive the GT235 on forwards, and tie their bumpers together (the plastic cover on my GT235 is long gone), then strap the X7 at its rear, and the GT235 at its front.

Never lost anything overboard.
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post #4 of 12 Old 03-19-2017, 10:44 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Tractor Transport with Attachments

Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewOliver View Post
Always put all the attachments firmly on the trailer floor. If you're worried about damaging the trailer floor, put down some scrap lumber. If the tiller won't reach the floor, put some blocks under it. Suitcase weights are probably ok, but even then, it would be best to take them off and throw them in the truck. Even if you leave the hydraulics holding something up, they will leak down fairly quickly. I wouldn't use the depth stop to hold up a tiller or box blade over bumps at speed for 50 miles, either.
Thanks for the response guys. I think you confirmed my suspicions not to use the depth stop rod. I am not worried about the trailer floor as I have plywood down. I am worried about the tiller tines as the tiller manual says to never rest the weight of the tiller on them and during the bounce of travel that would even be worse. The retractable kick stands alone do not keep the tines up high enough and I run the adjustable feet in the lowest depth setting. Guess I can try resetting the feet, only disadvantage there is that requires unbolting them and re-position for each trip or I am going to have to come up with some sort of stand or special cut blocks for the tiller feet.

The trailer or weight balance is not of issue. Trailer is a 18 foot tandem with a 2 foot dove tail, room for tractor attachments on both ends, I know about how to position it on the trailer that I barely feel there is anything on the tandem. KHodges my trip is about 25 miles each each way to my parents too and then sometimes a bit further to a friends house.

Thanks again

Previous:
2008 JD X728

1998 Cub Cadet 2185 48" MMM 42" Snow Plow...RIP

Current:
2012 John Deere X748SE
3pt hitch, Rear PTO, 7 Iron, 54 Snow Plow, 647 Tiller,
45 Loader, Kwik Forks, iMatch, Heavy Hitch, Cyclone Rake Z-10,
Box Blade BB2048L, and Rear Blade RB2060L
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post #5 of 12 Old 03-19-2017, 11:12 PM
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Re: Tractor Transport with Attachments

Khodges... Do you tie the hood down when transporting a tractor backwards on the trailer?

2009 x720 62" Deck 214 hours and brand new deck (surprise birthday present from my wife)

2005 GX 335 54" Deck
48" blade with Thompson 4" stroke 1200# actuator
2003 Scag Tiger Cub 48"
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post #6 of 12 Old 03-20-2017, 12:05 AM
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Re: Tractor Transport with Attachments

Quote:
Originally Posted by Maverick74 View Post
Just wanted to see how others handle this situation. Sorry for the extensive writing here. My question is more around the procedure you use to move your equipment on a trailer over the road not so much the trailer itself, it's type, or size. My tractor is a JD X748.

When I load the tractor up, if the deck is only on, I simply lower the deck and strap the tractor itself down not touching the deck and lock the tractor brakes. Note: Tractor brakes are applied in all scenarios below too.

If the loader is on I put a piece of plywood on the trailer floor and lower the loader just enough to press barely(not in float mode) and I do use the loader arms as the front strapping point on the tractor and the rear axle as the rear strapping point. -->Here is where my main question is.. in this situation my rear ballast is always on the 3PH. If it's the box blade I now lower it to the floor like the loader and run a strap to it for stability but if it's simply suitcase weights I lower them to the depth stop and run a strap to them to try and keep the hitch from bouncing on the road.

The tiller scares me the most as it is heavy and hangs out far and therefore exerts more leverage on tractor. My tiller is a JD647 and the 2 retractable support feet do not keep the tines off the ground so I do not want to lower it all the way on the tines taking the weight off the hitch. I can only lower it to the depth stop and strap it just like I do with the suitcase weights. I move the tractor with the tiller about 2 times a year about 50 miles each time.

I have broken the depth stop rod once already on the x748 but I attributed that to a defect and/or the extreme vibration from running a 3PH attached cyclone rake leaf system over 3 rough acres as that is the moment when it broke 2 years ago.

Maybe I am over thinking this but.... One time after transporting the unit with the box blade on(happen to be hanging in the air during transport) I could not get the I-match to release the box blade as the I match top hook you can remove and adjust moved slightly and was causing a pinch. To loosen those two I match adjusting nuts I had to use a long breaker bar so they were plenty tight. I am not sure if the work I was doing with the box blade caused the pinch or if it was bouncing during the transport.

I am about at the season where I need to take it to till some family gardens but again find myself questioning if I should be building some sort of transport spacer/cradle for the tiller to rest in when lowered. That is sort of a pain for just a couple trips a year?? Also I would love to someday have the 60in JD broom too which I would sometimes transport but I think that has wheels to rest on if needed to avoid the extra leverage.

Thanks for reading and any input!!
Do you have a steel deck on your trailer? Just wondering if that's the reason for the extra plywood.

It's never a good idea to suspend any 3pt attachment via the tractor's hydraulics or depth stop while transporting. The forces produced from a few hundred pounds flying up, then slamming back down after a bump, can have catastrophic results. I've always had the tiller resting on the tines directly on the wood trailer deck with no ill results; the way the weight is distributed over so many tines, I don't see what the issue is. I'd highly recommend getting/using a click-n-go weight bracket instead of the 3pt bracket for ballast purposes.

2011 JD X748
2004 JD 4410 TLB


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post #7 of 12 Old 03-20-2017, 01:03 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Tractor Transport with Attachments

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Originally Posted by Diesel Powered View Post
Do you have a steel deck on your trailer? Just wondering if that's the reason for the extra plywood.

It's never a good idea to suspend any 3pt attachment via the tractor's hydraulics or depth stop while transporting. The forces produced from a few hundred pounds flying up, then slamming back down after a bump, can have catastrophic results. I've always had the tiller resting on the tines directly on the wood trailer deck with no ill results; the way the weight is distributed over so many tines, I don't see what the issue is. I'd highly recommend getting/using a click-n-go weight bracket instead of the 3pt bracket for ballast purposes.
Diesel,
The trailer has a wood floor, dove tile is diamond plate. It's typically used as a car hauler but the floor boards are sealed with a textured finish. Just an effort on my part to try to prolong the finish. My other utility trailer typically gets the harsh payloads but the car hauler works better for the tractor.

I always had a tension strap to try to negate any bounce on the 3ph with tiller or weights but like you said it's couple hundred pounds and that can be hard to hold and hard on the depth stop and is what triggered my questioning. Good to know you have not had any issue with weight on tiller tines. I was thinking like you as much of the weight and more is on them when your tilling until I read in the manual that it was not recommended and figured during transport would even be worse as we said with other forces in play. I been using a heavy hitch for ballast on the 748 since day one.

Previous:
2008 JD X728

1998 Cub Cadet 2185 48" MMM 42" Snow Plow...RIP

Current:
2012 John Deere X748SE
3pt hitch, Rear PTO, 7 Iron, 54 Snow Plow, 647 Tiller,
45 Loader, Kwik Forks, iMatch, Heavy Hitch, Cyclone Rake Z-10,
Box Blade BB2048L, and Rear Blade RB2060L

Last edited by Maverick74; 03-20-2017 at 01:26 AM.
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post #8 of 12 Old 03-20-2017, 09:38 AM
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Re: Tractor Transport with Attachments

I agree with the assessment that you should keep all attachments lowered to the deck. I think the stress of bouncing down the road is much more than the tractor's mounting hardware was intended to take. You can develop some pretty harsh downforce when a truck/trailer goes over some bumps in the road at speed. This is the same reason you should never leave your boat's outboard motor suspended while trailering it. As for your tiller, I think you could build some blocks to support the skids and keep the tines off the deck so they don't take the full weight of the tiller. Being finicky about that stuff, I'd probably also build a block to go under the 3pt arms or front frame of the tiller to support it there too, since the skids aren't THAT strong themselves.

Rob

2016 x758 w/60" HC mower, 54" snowblower, MC519 bagger
2010 2520 w/61" H130 loader, TA 42" forks, KK 60" Pro tiller, iMatch quick hitch, KK middle buster
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post #9 of 12 Old 03-20-2017, 07:13 PM
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Re: Tractor Transport with Attachments

If you are worried about damaging tiller times during transport just think of the loads placed on them while tilling. Also would it not be better to tie the tractor down than tying the attachments down. The thought here is you are trying to constrain the tractor and if the attachments to the tractor will restrain attachments just maybe they should not be there anyway. If they are an intrigal part of the tractor that is entirely different.
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post #10 of 12 Old 03-20-2017, 07:14 PM
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Re: Tractor Transport with Attachments

If you are worried about damaging tiller times during transport just think of the loads placed on them while tilling. Also would it not be better to tie the tractor down than tying the attachments down. The thought here is you are trying to constrain the tractor and if the attachments to the tractor will not restrain the attachments just maybe they should not be there anyway. If they are an intrigal part of the tractor that is entirely different.
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post #11 of 12 Old 03-20-2017, 11:03 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Tractor Transport with Attachments

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Originally Posted by Ariens93GT20 View Post
If you are worried about damaging tiller times during transport just think of the loads placed on them while tilling. Also would it not be better to tie the tractor down than tying the attachments down. The thought here is you are trying to constrain the tractor and if the attachments to the tractor will not restrain the attachments just maybe they should not be there anyway. If they are an intrigal part of the tractor that is entirely different.
Tractor itself is strapped down and the attachments have a support strap too.

Just going by a warning in the manual to not rest the tiller on it's tines. The tiller does weigh in around 315 lbs + any hanging dirt and the i match I believe weighs around another 45 lbs so I was a bit concerned about the tines when trailer bounces and/or the depth stop on the tractor if the tiller is not on the floor. I will be making some sort of cradle for the tiller's feet to set in and they can be used in the garage too instead of the stack of 2X4s on the floor.

Previous:
2008 JD X728

1998 Cub Cadet 2185 48" MMM 42" Snow Plow...RIP

Current:
2012 John Deere X748SE
3pt hitch, Rear PTO, 7 Iron, 54 Snow Plow, 647 Tiller,
45 Loader, Kwik Forks, iMatch, Heavy Hitch, Cyclone Rake Z-10,
Box Blade BB2048L, and Rear Blade RB2060L

Last edited by Maverick74; 03-21-2017 at 12:18 AM.
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post #12 of 12 Old 03-21-2017, 03:45 PM
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Re: Tractor Transport with Attachments

Quote:
Originally Posted by royalton10 View Post
Khodges... Do you tie the hood down when transporting a tractor backwards on the trailer?
Not the hood; never had an issue with air lifting it, as mine fasten pretty securely. I have had the seats flip up, though, but it's not a problem. If I think about it when I load, I'll throw a bungee cord over the seat and strap it to the rear fenders.

I can't imagine how resting the tiller on its tines could hurt anything; they are hardened steel, they sure won't bend and any bouncing couldn't be as bad as what they get digging in hard ground. I've towed my tractor with the tiller on back countless times, always rest it on the tines because they extend below the side skids. I'd have to be on some pretty rough road to make a 350 pound tiller bounce when hooked to a strapped-down tractor. Mine is a 50" Land Pride.

Proud owner of :
'08 JD X748SE, 54C deck
3-pt hitch, rear PTO
Power Flow and MC519 cart
LP RTR0550 rototiller
?? 60" box blade
Simplicity 10" plow adapted to 3-pt hitch
45 Loader

'02 JD GT235, 48C deck

'84 JD 318, 50" deck

'86 JD 214, 46" deck

'86 JD 212, 38" deck
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