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Homemade loader for JD4x5

13K views 88 replies 11 participants last post by  NWFLYJ 
#1 ·
Hi to everyone,

Long time ago I dream to have loader function. I can't buy JD OEM loader because here there are none of them in Lithuania. To bring loader to Europe (Lithuania) cost almost the same or more as the loader. Locally I can buy new loader but I need to adopt it to my tractor and it again cost allot because locally loader are made for Japanese mini tractors and they are bigger, different mounting and etc. I can made loader my myself, but don't have very good welding skills but it's not main thing. I don't have enough time for it :( it's main thing. OK, if there is no possibility to get / make loader maybe I can make front scoop - I have 54" front blade? But I have rear 3PT scoop / bucket. It is almost the same function... not so big upgrade. Buford type front mini loader? It is big project as to make loader in my opinion. Maybe less metal and time. And I spend about two years of thinking :(

Ok, back to tractor and loader. One day browsing internet I find guy who making custom things from metal and have very good welding skills. I ask for help and we agree - he making and I will be designer / architect :)

And the project started...

P.S. Attached 3PT rear scoop / bucket / transportation box which I have.
 

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#2 ·
First thing is to make front end loader subframe. I want to have something similar as the OEM JD 40 loader for 4x5 tractor.
 

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#3 ·
I have John Deere 425 AWS. It means additional steering linkage and tricky job to make subframe... One picture with rear steering linkage.
 

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#4 ·
Subscribed! Love the look of the sub frame! And welcome from America!

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
#6 · (Edited)
Subscribed! now u can look at the loader I built.. see the link in my 'sig' area on the Perky machine..

on edit now.. the main purpose of the sub frame is to get the force of the rear wheels to the front end.. this force is huge.. especially when the bucket comes to a quick halt.. the rear wheels will wanna keep going forward.. this action will bend frames..

in ur pics I see a small tubing attached to the front.. this tubing also has a 90 degree bend in it.. this is bad.. that bend will allow flex.. the rear of the sub frame should b attached to the rear axle & move forward from there..
 
#9 ·
I'm copying John Deere original loader sub frame and using the same holes in the tractor's frame to mount sub frame as mother Deere use. It's almost one to one design copy. I will use additional reinforcements to avoid this.

In attachment original sub frame (picture from internet).
 

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#11 ·
A little more progress on loader. First real mockup.
 

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#12 ·
Trying to match JD 40 or 45 loader geometry. One difference is pole height. They will be higher than original loader. It will allow to get bigger loader lift height.
 

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#13 · (Edited)
when I built my loader on the MF 14.. I used a 5 foot long cold rolled pin to go thro the top arms pivot.. this lined them up with each other.. when I made the arms I also used a shorter pin thro all the pins.. I kept it as square as I could.. after all the weldin was done I could slide the 5 foot long one thro all the pin locations.. it was also used on the bucket pins too..

how high the bucket goes may have to b a bare minimum.. going too high can cause a 'tip over' with a loaded bucket.. with a 4 wheel steer unit this can b serious.. as the rear wheels do real short turnin radius's..

all I can say is to keep the bucket as low as possible when makin corners.. keep the rear wheels as level as possible when bucket is raised to max..

most 'tip overs' happen when going backwards.. back up in a straight line is best.. in reverse the rear wheels can leave the ground with the bucket loaded heavy.. here u have the engine addin to the equation.. when rear wheels come off the ground & the front wheels r in a turn mode.. this puts the geometry of the rear weight off dead center line.. the rear wheels will b to one side or the other.. gravity will then take control..
 
#18 ·
It's time for the bucket. My plan was to have quick attach bucket system. John Deere in the US use different attach system from Europe. In the US is used JDQA system and in the Europe Euro 8 / John Deere Global attaching system. In Europe is easy to find Euro 8 attachments and I going to have this system.
 

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#19 ·
And 48" bucket. Not yet attached and not finished.
 

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#20 ·
If I have bucket quick attach system I can attach something more :tango_face_smile:
I have OEM 54" front blade with the 4 way quick hitch. In the winter for the snow pushing I wanna to use loader and blade. Blade for the open part of road and the loader for the part of road with the closed sides (neighbors with fences from both road sides). It means I need to put blade on the loader. I have angling kit and I wanna to use it. What do you think about attaching front quick hitch to the loader and keep angling function? Quick mockup. Quick hitch attaches in different angle than originally to the front frame, but it's not the problem. I can use loader dump function to level it.
 

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#21 ·
By the way. It's hard to get negative rollback (I think I write correct? english is not my native language) more than 20 degree and bucket dump more than 50 degree. After some not very successful trying to get it directly mounting bucket to cylinders I copied from tractor in the dealer front linkage from bucket to cylinders to get better geometry. Now negative is about 25-30 and dump is about 65-70. Not all welded fully and degrees have range. But I like this range.

Bucket level under tractor wheels is about 5".
 
#23 ·
Yes I wanna to do this. Project is going out of scope :( Now I need additional SCV. Now question is to go with the H3 or H5... I have read about electric flow valves, but is not normal spool. Tomorrow will check prices for the SCV.
 
#24 ·
Wow your moving right along! I can't quite tell from the pics, but it looks like your uprights are really tall. Or are they more even with the top of the hood like the 40 loader?

Your English is quite good actually

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
#26 ·
I don't know exactly how tall is 40 loader uprights, but comparing photos from internet and my loader I would say they are 30 cm (~12 inch) or a little bit less taller. But I trying to keep distance between front of tractor and loader bucket the same as 40 loader. JD 40 loader has 53" maximum clearance under full dumped bucket and 50 degree dump angle. My loader dump angle can be about 60-70 degree - I need more hight to keep or to have a little more maximum clearance under full dumped bucket. I'm planing to make bucket extension to work with light material and snow. Extension in the front of bucket also will reduce clearance.
 
#25 ·
The workmanship is exceptional!
I noticed and admired the linkage for the bucket, you didn't need to tell us where the idea came from. :)

I agree, your English is better than that used by many who grew up here in the states. :fing32:

Keep posting your progress pictures, were all enjoying them.

Add as many spools as you can, it will save you $ in the long run (or should that have been € or other :biglaugh: ) you will find a way to use them.

Donewrken


:fing32:

.
 
#27 ·
You're right, I need more spools :) I will go with the H5. Going from H2 the price difference between H3 and H5 is minimal.
 
#28 ·
Darius,

Great progress on the build and fantastic workmanship!

You will definitely appreciated your decision to go with an H5 setup.

I know that your said that you project is getting out scope, but have you considered using a cable actuated joystick to control the spools for your front mounted implements (loader e.g.)? Makes it so much easier to control them.

Here is a link to another MTF members adaptation : --> Joystick Conversion

Roger
 
#30 ·
Yes, I considered cable actuated joystick and read all post about conversion. But at this moment it seems to complicated new project for me. Maybe in the future :)
 
#29 · (Edited)
Project H5. H2 original and plus new 3 spool valve. From new valve one spool is with the float position - loader lift, another for the dump and the last one for the additional attachments - in my case front blade angle or small tree puller attachment in future. OEM lever will handle rear 3 PT. This SCV as an option has possibility to change simple 2 handles to joystick. It (conversion) costs ~40$
 

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#34 ·
A 3PH, while not critical, is definitely a desired option with a loader.

For rear weight, start by loading the tires with liquid ballast, then add wheel weights. From there, add weight to the 3PH to counter the weight of the loader bucket and some of its payload.
 
#36 ·
I think I have made mistake writing about 3 point hitch. I already have 3PT hitch from x700 series. I need something like Heavy hitch or 3PT weight bracket. Now I think I write it correct :) And here it is.
 

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