You mean a carbide blade meant for steel...right? I've never heard of a plywood blade that'll cut steel. Mind you I've tried it a few times unintentionally when I'd cut into my steel workbenches, doens't work all that well
If you're cutting aluminum yes on the plywood blade but a carbide wood blade will last longer.....Mike
I mean a steel plywood blade, no carbide at all, and correctly oriented for cutting plywood, not backwards like you do when cutting aluminum.
My FIL told me about this 35 years ago. I was, of course, hesitant about ruining a perfectly good blade until I picked one up for cheap at a going out of business sale several years later. Even then I wasn't going to waste steel trying it out until I had a project that needed it.
A couple of years later my neighbour and I collaborated on a set of heavy duty bumpers for our trucks that required straight line cuts in 1/8" steel floor plate (checker or diamond plate) totalling over 30' per set. We were doing this on the cheap and toting a 160 lb. sheet of plate to a metals shop for shearing was not in our plans or budget and some of the cuts couldn't be made on a shear anyway.
I was amazed at the results with the first cut. Right on line, fast (compared to a torch), straight and only a small burr on both sides of the plate to be removed. The burr gets bigger with extensive cutting, especially if you do any plunge cuts which really wear the teeth, so save the plunge cuts for last. I used the same blade on another major project several years later and though it didn't cut as fast or straight because of the previous plunge cuts, it still beat a torch hands down. For a $2.99 blade and about $0.90 worth of electricity, I got approximately 90' of cutting between the 2 projects. Not too shabby. If I ever have another project like that, I'll spend the money on a new blade at regular price and call it a bargain.
, I never had a need to try 1/4", but after cutting 1/8" I would not say it can't be done. I've had many people tell me that 1/8" can't be done. A couple were convinced when I demonstrated with my projects. Those are the limits my FIL gave me, along with another gem that might interest you
Use metal strapping for a band saw blade to cut leaf springs. Apparently the first cut takes a while until the edge of the strapping gets roughed up, after that, it slices through the spring with relative ease without destroying the temper.
The process for both is called Friction Sawing
. I read an article on it in Popular Science or some such magazine in the late 70's or 80's (I had subscriptions to 3 such magazines at the time) that bore out much of what my FIL told me.
These are low budget tools to do a job which can be somewhat better done with the correct (higher priced) tools.
I didn't mean to highjack the thread.
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