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Old 03-29-2011, 02:25 PM   post #1 of 27
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Default Chain Saw Lube

Is rearend lube a substitute for bar oil? It looks like the same thick sticky stuff. What do you all use for lube?
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Old 03-29-2011, 02:36 PM   post #2 of 27
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Default Re: Chain Saw Lube

I use winter blend bar oil year round in my saw. I'd think 80/90 would be a bit too thick even when warm to properly lube the bar and chain.
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Old 03-29-2011, 02:57 PM   post #3 of 27
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Default Re: Chain Saw Lube

I use the Stihl oil that comes in a green jug, veggie oil based. Or, canola oil when I run out of the Stihl stuff.
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Old 03-29-2011, 03:02 PM   post #4 of 27
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Default Re: Chain Saw Lube

I have been using drain oil for years and have never wore out a chain or a bar.
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Old 03-29-2011, 03:03 PM   post #5 of 27
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Default Re: Chain Saw Lube

Forgot to add that I agree with Dave, and can say from personal experience that rear end oil is not a good substitute.
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Old 03-29-2011, 03:14 PM   post #6 of 27
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Default Re: Chain Saw Lube

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Originally Posted by orange j d View Post
I have been using drain oil for years and have never wore out a chain or a bar.
You should explain better. This is good advice, if you use your saw constantly, and cut a lot of wood. If you don't, and use occasionally, then it is bad advice.
Myself, I use a good quality bar oil. Bar oil is engineered to stick to the chain and bar, not sling off completely. Burnt motor oil may still lubricate, but no way can it perform as well as bar oil.
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Old 03-29-2011, 04:21 PM   post #7 of 27
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Default Re: Chain Saw Lube

I've never used anything but "Bar & Chain" oil in ANY of my saws.. If you buy it by the gallon .. its not very expensive.

Gear oil would be WAY to thick for an auto or manual oil pump saw.
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Old 03-30-2011, 01:08 AM   post #8 of 27
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Default Re: Chain Saw Lube

I just figger if it sez "Bar and Chain Oil" on the container and it's made by Stihl, really how bad could it be? In my previous life I lived near a guy who ran a real sawyer's shop. He had 3 drums of bar oil for any season of the year you bring the jug. Some say you should cut bar oil in cold weather with a little kero, but my experience with Stihl oil shows that with a few minutes warm up it will still fill the chain and track with oil no problem. Used motor oil with all that acid and carbon grit in it for my sawz, NO WAY! High $ saws = decent clean new virgin bar oil.
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Old 03-30-2011, 06:28 AM   post #9 of 27
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Default Re: Chain Saw Lube

I have to agree at 700 bucks I,m not about to put dirty motor oil in my saw.and no cutting the bar oil.only takes a minute for oil to come up to temp.I like that poulan bar oil.really hangs on the blade.truth be knowen probably all comes out the same barrel.back to cutting wood now as a matter of fact.bought that stinking kero this year for the first time in a good while.at the price they get I,ll be cutting alot of wood,getting a little long in the tooth to be slinging around a 041 but somebody has to do it.can,t get the old lady to do everything I guess.try as i might.
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Old 03-30-2011, 03:48 PM   post #10 of 27
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Originally Posted by LilysDad View Post
Is rearend lube a substitute for bar oil? It looks like the same thick sticky stuff. What do you all use for lube?

80W-90W gear oil is the same viscosity as 30W-40W motor oil. Just different systems for expressing thickness - depending if for a gear box or an engine.

I've been using waste motor oil for 40 years for all my bar oil with zero problems. It's just about always use 15W-40 or straight 30W motor oil, drained from my diesel cars, trucks, and tractors. I pour it once through a paint filter and store it in gallon jugs.

If I'm using a long bar, like 32" I turn the oil pump up to it's highest setting.

Now, when it comes to engine oil to put in the gas? I wish the heck companies were forced to get their two-stroke-oils API tested and rated so we could tell what we were actually getting. When some of my Homelites and Sthils were new - late 60s, early 70s - they allowed using 30W engine oil or special two-stroke-oil. Actually, even my mid-1980s manual for my Stihl 045 Super still says that.
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Old 03-30-2011, 03:57 PM   post #11 of 27
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Originally Posted by hodge View Post
You should explain better. This is good advice, if you use your saw constantly, .
I can't speak for the guy you posted to, but can for myself. I've been using watse motor oil since the 1960s in all my saws. I still cut at least a full 20 cords (4' X 4' X 8') every summer of white ash, pignut-hickory, beech, hard maple, and red oak. I've never ever had a lube problem on a bar or chain. Smallest bars I have are 18" and biggest are 42" and none have roller noses. MY 1940s Homelites and my 1960s Stihls are my oldest that still get used, off and on. I suspect if this oil was going to hurt them in some way, it would of happened by now?

Yeah, I did feel a little guilty last summer pouring black waste oil into my brand new Dolmars and Efcos - but I got over it fast. The saws certainly didn't complain.

I worked as saw mechanic for a long time - as a Homlelite, Sachs, Dolmar, Hoe, and Sthil tech. I saw a lot of ruined bars over the years and I doubt any were ruined by bad oil. Usually the problem was NO oil at all, or . . . forcing the saw to cut with a dull chain.

I also took many discarded bars home that the owners swore were bad - and am still using them with no problems. Badly sharpened chains often convince owners they need new bars.
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Old 03-30-2011, 04:22 PM   post #12 of 27
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Originally Posted by jdemaris View Post
I can't speak for the guy you posted to, but can for myself. I've been using watse motor oil since the 1960s in all my saws. I still cut at least a full 20 cords (4' X 4' X 8') every summer of white ash, pignut-hickory, beech, hard maple, and red oak. I've never ever had a lube problem on a bar or chain. Smallest bars I have are 18" and biggest are 42" and none have roller noses. MY 1940s Homelites and my 1960s Stihls are my oldest that still get used, off and on. I suspect if this oil was going to hurt them in some way, it would of happened by now?

Yeah, I did feel a little guilty last summer pouring black waste oil into my brand new Dolmars and Efcos - but I got over it fast. The saws certainly didn't complain.

I worked as saw mechanic for a long time - as a Homlelite, Sachs, Dolmar, Hoe, and Sthil tech. I saw a lot of ruined bars over the years and I doubt any were ruined by bad oil. Usually the problem was NO oil at all, or . . . forcing the saw to cut with a dull chain.

I also took many discarded bars home that the owners swore were bad - and am still using them with no problems. Badly sharpened chains often convince owners they need new bars.
This makes my point- you have backed a statement up with long term experience, quantifiable results (years of hard use without issue, plus the experience of working professionally on saws), and you are an obvious voice of experience. I am not trying to imply that orange jd doesn't know what he is talking about- just saying that statements like that without further information can lead someone down a wrong path. We all have a responsibility in the advice that we give out.
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Old 03-30-2011, 05:49 PM   post #13 of 27
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Default Re: Chain Saw Lube

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We all have a responsibility in the advice that we give out.
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And we all have the responsibility not to be flinging dirty old used waste oil around in the woods.

The past was the past, and hopefully, just hopefully , we can we learn something from it , and some of the new ways that are available around us.
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Old 03-30-2011, 06:07 PM   post #14 of 27
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And we all have the responsibility not to be flinging dirty old used waste oil around in the woods.

The past was the past, and hopefully, just hopefully , we can we learn something from it , and some of the new ways that are available around us.
I guess we all have our own versions of what we think is right.

In my opinion? Worrying about the little bit of oil that gets flung off my bar in my woods? Does not even amount to a pimple on a flea's private parts.
It's in so little concentration, it breaks down fairly quickly. Some winds up in the wood I burn.

I worry a lot more about all the farms in my area using tons of petro-based fertilizers, herbicides,and insecticides every year.

Do you eat any food bought from a store? Chances are -you are supporting modern agriculture that relies almost 100% on petroleum products - that get dumped into the ground and spit into the air and trucked using diesel fuel and refrigerated using coal-generated-electricity.

Now, if I take all my waste oil to a local "proper" dumping place, it will get burned to make heat - locally. So, OK, now it will be turned into various chemicals and go into our air.

I don't fly. Note that air-travel is huge pollutant. I heat my house and barn 100% with my own firewood from my own woods. No oil or propane or natural gas being burned here. I am using a renewable resource to heat my home and barn and all my hot water. My house and barn are on 100% solar electric. We grow most of our own food and mostly organically (but we have to cheat a little).

So yeah, I cause some pollution - but I'm willing to bet I create a heck of lot less then most people.

I'd like to see some facts and figures how much pollution and waste takes place manufacturing "clean" bar oils. I suspect the record is far from perfect.
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Old 03-30-2011, 06:22 PM   post #15 of 27
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Easy guys. Let's let some of the tension drop.
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